The routes

57
Routes in archive
Duel
Climbing routes
Duel - Altrolato
7a+
Established with the use of aid Adriano Trombetta and Aziz with difficulties up to A2, Duel was subsequently freed on 5 october 2011 by the first ascentionists. As the name suggests, beautiful twin cracks offer physical, continuous and elegant climbing.
Eau et gaz à toutes les étages
Climbing routes
Eau et gaz à toutes les étages - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7c max.
A spectacular, demanding and, as the name suggests, extremely airy route. Not to be underestimated at any costs: retreat is a difficult proposition, and almost impossible above the great roof. Psychologically more demanding than Voyage or Elixir, but highly rewarding....
Electric Avenue
Climbing routes
Electric Avenue - Aiguille du Midi, Grand Gendarme Arête des Cosmiques
7b
Electric Avenue is an interesting addition to the Gendarme des Cosmiques, only the third route on the granite monolith after Digital Crack (1990) and Arête Cosmiques (2013) and at 7b the easiest way to the summit. Note that if you climb...
Elixier d’Astaroth
Climbing routes
Elixier d’Astaroth - Grand Capucin
ED+, 7a+ max, A2
This is the most direct line up the vertical wall, the exposure is total and the climbing, apart from a small section half-way up the aid pitch, is always pumpy and sustained. Not all belays have in-situ gear, but the...
Empire State Building
Climbing routes
Empire State Building - Clocher du Tacul
ED+, 7c max
An outstanding and spectacular route, more technical than at first appearance. The final pitches up the spur are truly genial! The crack pitch is not easy for those not used to crack climbing will find the crack pitch extremely difficult,...
End of the Flare
Climbing routes
End of the Flare
E5 6b (7a+)
End of the Flare climbs the prominent flake offwidth crack seen from the road close to Fornolosa. The first pitch is hidden in the trees and offers powerful and pumpy climbing.
Exo-Ciuc
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Exo-Ciuc - Valgrisenche
WI5/II
The name of the route refers to the far harder and more famous Exocet, the spectacular ice climb up Aguja Standart, in Patagonia. The waterfall is high avalanche risk in the event of heavy snowfall. The icefall is at risk...
Fast & Furious
Climbing routes
Fast & Furious - Aiguille de Chatelet
6a+/6a oblig S3
Short but interesting outing up the South Face, forged ground-up with 10mm bolts over three days in June 2013.
Fat Tony
Climbing routes
Fat Tony
E6 6b (7c)
Fat Tony climbs the leftwards diagonal crack with great difficulty until the roof is reached. After bathanging, continue to glory...!
Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi
Climbing routes
Fessura della Disperazione + Camino Bernardi - Sergent
6a+
A legendary crack, one of the symbols of Valle dell’Orco, an absolute valley classic. Not to be missed. Fessura della Disperazione, the crack of despair is an enormous crack that plunges through the compact slabs of the Sergent. Although...
Fessura di Gianfri
Climbing routes
Fessura di Gianfri - Nid Des Hirondelles - Valgrisenche
5.13 – 8a
Located at Nid Des Hirondelles, the first crag to be bolted in Valgrisenche, Fessura di Gianfri climbs the obvious diagonal crack that splits the huge overhang.
Géant dans L’âme
Classic mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing
Géant dans L’âme - Dent du Géant
M8/+, 6a
Géant dans L’âme on the north face of Dent du Géant really stands out due to the variety of climbing styles it offers. Over "only" 500 meters it has pretty much everything, including a very technical and physical section in...
Gervasutti
Climbing routes
Gervasutti - Pic Adolphe Rey
TD+, 6a+ max
Rudimentary climbing up extremely tiring corners, laybacks and jams…
Il lato oscuro
Climbing routes
Il lato oscuro - Sergent
II/S2+/6c max
Varied and interesting climing with some great pitches which need to be protected with trad gear and two difficult bolt-protected slabs.
Indurain tiene dos huevos
Climbing routes
Indurain tiene dos huevos - Trident du Tacul
ED, 7a max
Highly rewarding, logical route that follows a series of cracks up the Trident du Tacul. Some belays have no in-situ pro and require friends. The grades of some pitches have been modified after the probable first repeat at the hands...
Itaca nel Sole Free
Climbing routes
Itaca nel Sole Free - Caporal
8b
Itaca nel Sole is possibily the most repeated route on Caporal in Valle dell'Orco. First ascended in June 1975 by Gian Piero Motti and Guido Morello with A2 aid on the upper section, it was freed in 2003 by Cristian...


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