15 years ago today Hansjörg Auer set a major milestone in mountaineering history with his daring free solo of the Via Through the Fish on the south face of the Marmolada in the Dolomites
Josune Bereziartu, Lynn Hill, Luisa Iovane: three women who have left their mark in the history of rock climbing
Three women, and three climbs, which helped change the course of rock climbing: Luisa Iovane on Comeback in Val San Nicolò in 1986, Lynn Hill on The Nose in 1993 and Josune Bereziartu on Bain de Sang in 2002. Our article written in conjunction with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of their 'Learn to Climb with Vibram' project.
In the run-up to the Tokyo Olympics, La Sportiva launches Climbing Sparkling Moments, the first weekly storytelling podcast that talks about the game-changer moments of the history of climbing. Episode #1 features the very first international sport climbing competition in Bardonecchia in 1985, and the famous splits carried out by the rising star Stefan Glowacz.
Massone, Nago, Belvedere, Spiaggia delle Lucertole and Calvario: five crags you must visit to savour the best sport climbing around Arco and Lake Garda. This is the first article in a series made with Vibram, to celebrate climbing yesterday, today and tomorrow as part of its 'Learn to Climb with Vibram' project.
On 25/02/2021 South Tyrolean alpinist Simon Gietl completed a solo ascent of Mittelpfeiler / Pilastro di Mezzo on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass dla Crusc in the Dolomites, via the Mariacher variation.
The report and words about mountaineering from the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded to the Austrian mountaineer Heinz Mariacher celebrated at Reinhold Messner's Firmian Castle. Mariacher is the eighth alpinist to receive the prestigious award after Messner himself, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Austrian alpinist Heinz Mariacher is the recipient of the Paul Preuss Award 2020. Mariacher is the eighth mountaineer to receive the prestigious prize after Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander and Bernd Arnold.
Watch Heinz Mariacher repeating Rude Boys (8b/5.13c) at Smith Rock, Oregon, USA. A video from 1987 that takes you back to the origins of this 'new climbing’.
From 16 to 17 December 2019, after a day of reconnaissance, alpinists Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini established Pandora (600m, V, M5, A0, WI6) up the west face of Pordoi (Dolomites) . This ice and mixed climb links via Abram with via Niagara and tackles the huge hanging icefall that formed on the upper section of the face.
Heinz Mariacher shares his thoughts after Magnus Midtbø paid a visit to Arco, Italy, during which the Norwegian climber attempted to classic slab climbs dating back to the 1980s and first ascended by Mariacher himself: Super Swing at the Swing Area and Tom & Jerry at Spiaggia delle Lucertole.
The video of Magnus Midtbø tackling two ‘legendary' slabs at Arco first ascended by Heinz Mariacher: Super Swing (1983) at Swing Area and Tom e Jerry (1984) at Spiaggia delle Lucertole immediately above Lake Garda.
From 13 to 15 July 2018 Passo di Monte Croce Carnico in the Carnic Alps, Friuli Venezia Giulia, Italy, will host the historic climbing meeting Arrampicarnia. The event will also celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first ascent of Crete delle Chianevate. Three days of rock climbing, encounters, courses, walks, activities for children and guided ascents up Via Grohmann and Via Normale.
90 years La Sportiva. The Mariacher, the violet climbing shoes by La Sportiva that represent an unconditional point of reference in the history of climbing. Not only sport climbing
The second and final episode about the history of sport climbing at Arco, taken from the book 'Rock Master, Climbing at Arco'.
Belgian climber Siebe Vanhee reports about his repeat of Don Quixote up the Marmolada in the Dolomites together with paraclimber Frederik Leys. First climbed by Heinz Mariacher and Reinhard Schiestl in 1979, the route is considered a classic outing up the South Face.
18-year-old Marco Cordin's retraces his recent repeat, together with the 16-year-old Pietro Garzon, of Tempi Moderni up the South Face of Marmolada. First climbed in 1982 by Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane, this is one of the most famous rock climbs in the Dolomites.
When climbing resembles poetry: scenes from "Ritorno al silenzio”, the 1992 film about climbing in the Dolomites starring Heinz Mariacher and Luisa Iovane.
Climbing video: the documentary Fish that follows Italian climber Federica Mingolla up the famous rock climb via Attraverso il Pesce (Weg durch den Fisch), first ascended in 1981 by Igor Koller and Jindric Šustr on the South Face of Marmolada, Dolomites.
Thirty years later. The report by Rolando Larcher who, with his son Alessandro, returned to the climbs Elephant Baby (at San Paolo) and Gravity Games (at Eremo) not only to repeat these historic routes established in 1986 and the first to be graded 8a at Arco, but also to show to someone of the "indoor climbing generation" the origins of sport climbing which in the early 1980’s attempted, through trials and also "errors", to find its way.
On 15/10/2016 the crag Lumignano (Italy) will host its international Climbing Marathon meeting.