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Voie Lafaille on Drus West face freed by Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo
13/08/2025 - Alpinism
Voie Lafaille on Drus West face freed by Léo Billon, Enzo Oddo
French alpinists Léo Billon and Enzo Oddo have made the first free ascent of 'Voie Lafaille' on the West face the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif. The route was established solo by French ace Jean-Christophe Lafaille in winter 2001.
Solleder-Lettenbauer on Civetta celebrates 100th anniversary
07/08/2025 - Alpinism
Solleder-Lettenbauer on Civetta celebrates 100th anniversary
Today, 7 August 2025, the 'Solleder-Lettenbauer' route on the Northwest Face of Civetta in the Dolomites turns 100 years old. First ascended in a single day by Gustav Lettenbauer and Emil Solleder on 7 August 1925, this climb is renowned for being the first sixth grade route in the Alps....
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
05/08/2025 - Interviews
Italian expedition aims for winter ascent of Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy in Patagonia
An strong Italian expedition comprised of Matteo Della Bordella, Tommaso Lamantia and Marco Majori is currently on its way to Patagonia where it aims to make the first winter ascent of the Casarotto route on the Goretta Pillar on Fitz Roy.
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/03/2025 - Alpinism
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 7 March 2025, Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made what is likely to be the first winter ascent of 'Via Dell’Eva-Taddei' on the north face of Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy). The summer climb, first ascended in 1969 and originally graded V+, was reinterpreted by Andreozzi and Falezza in a...
'Schiefer Riss' on Sagwand in Austria repeated by Simon Gietl, Martin Sieberer
27/02/2025 - Alpinism
'Schiefer Riss' on Sagwand in Austria repeated by Simon Gietl, Martin Sieberer
On 22-23/02/2025 Simon Gietl and Martin Sieberer made the first winter repeat of 'Schiefer Riss' on Sagwandspitze in the Valsertal in Austria, first climbed in winter 2013 by Hansjörg Auer, David Lama e Peter Ortner. Il report di Sieberer.
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
26/12/2024 - Alpinism
Video: Directissime Walker on Grandes Jorasses climbed in winter by Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin, Symon Welfringer
The video of the first repeat and first winter ascent of the 'Directissime' on Pointe Walker on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses, carried out from 9 to 13 February 2023 by French alpinists Charles Dubouloz, Clovis Paulin and Symon Welfringer. The route was established in summer 1986...
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
31/10/2024 - Alpinism
Tirich Mir, Jannu and Flat Top win Piolets d’Or 2024, Special Mention to Nives Meroi
The Piolets d'Or 2024 will be awarded to the following climbs: 'The Secret Line' on the north face of Tirich Mir in Pakistan by Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima, 'Round Trip Ticket' on the north face of Jannu in Nepal by Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell, and Alan Rousseau, and 'Tomorrow...
Dani Arnold receives Paul Preuss Award 2024
13/09/2024 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold receives Paul Preuss Award 2024
Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold is the twelfth recipient of the Paul Preuss Prize, awarded each year in memory of the bold Austrian alpinist. Instated in 2013, past winners are Reinhold Messner, Hanspeter Eisendle, Albert Precht, Hansjörg Auer, Alexander Huber, Beat Kammerlander, Bernd Arnold, Heinz Mariacher, Catherine Destivelle, Thomas Huber and...
Archil Badriashvili perishes on Mt Shkhelda in Georgia
14/08/2024 - Alpinism
Archil Badriashvili perishes on Mt Shkhelda in Georgia
Georgian mountaineer Archil Badriashvili, winner of the 2022 Piolet d’Or, lost his life on 10 August 2024 while descending from Mt Shkhelda in the Caucasus
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
25/03/2024 - Alpinism
Hypnotic Lain and Folie Perseverante, two new mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles, Mont Blanc massif
Santiago Padròs reports about his February 2024 first ascents of two mixed climbs at Envers des Aiguilles in the Mont Blanc massif: 'Hypnotic Lain' on Pointe de Nantillons with Oliver Gajewski dedicated to Line van den Berg, and 'Folie Perseverante' on Capucin du Requin, climbed with Valérie Dupont and...
First winter ascent of Scream of the Butterfly on Tsouka Rossa in Greece
22/02/2024 - Alpinism
first winter ascent of Scream of the Butterfly on Tsouka Rossa in Greece
Dimitris Daskalaki, Spyros Kyriakou and Christos Tsoutsias have made the coveted first winter ascent of 'Scream of the Butterfly' on Tsouka Rossa (1987m) in Greece.
Festival gorniškega filma 2024, the International Mountain Film Festival in Ljubljana & Domzale, Slovenia
10/02/2024 - Events
Festival gorniškega filma 2024, the International Mountain Film Festival in Ljubljana & Domzale, Slovenia
The 18th International Film Festival 'Festival gorniškega filma' will take place at Ljubljana and Domzale, Slovenia, from 12 - 17 February 2024. Directed by Silvo Karo, guests include Krzystof Wielicki, Leszek Cichy, Mikhail Fomin, Matteo Della Bordella, Mina Markovič, Edu Marin and many more.
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
19/08/2023 - Alpinism
Ciao Ermanno Salvaterra, the great dreamer
Remembering Ermanno Salvaterra, the great Italian mountaineer of the Brenta Dolomites and Patagonia, who perished yesterday while climbing on Campanile Alto di Brenta.
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
29/06/2023 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold solos Switzerland's Salbit Trilogy in under 10 hours
On 11 June 2023 Swiss mountaineer Dani Arnold soloed the three ridges on the legendary Salbitschijen in 9 hours, 36 minutes and 55 seconds.
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
01/06/2023 - Alpinism
Salbitschijen Winter trilogy completed by Lukas Hinterberger, Michael Wohlleben
From 15 to 16 February 2023 German alpinists Lukas Hinterberger and Michael Wohlleben completed what is likely to be the first winter ascent of the Salbitschijen trilogy, ie the famous Salbit West Ridge, South Ridge and East Ridge in Switzerland.
Triglav Čop Pillar climbed solo by Gašper Pintar
18/04/2023 - Alpinism
Triglav Čop Pillar climbed solo by Gašper Pintar
The report by Slovenian alpinist Gašper Pintar who on 28 and 29 March 2023 completed a remarkable solo climb of the famous Čop Pillar on the North Face of Triglav in Slovenia. Although technically no longer in the calendar winter, the ascent was carried out in conditions akin to the...