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Rebolting Millennium Cave in Sardinia - the complete list of all sport climbs at this Cala Gonone crag
04/03/2026 - Climbing
Rebolting Millennium Cave in Sardinia - the complete list of all sport climbs at this Cala Gonone crag
The Millennium Cave at Cala Gonone is one of the most famous climbing spots in Sardinia, but also one of the coastal crags most at risk of bolt corrosion on the Italian island. In order to address safety issues, since 2017 Maurizio Oviglia has undertaken a systematic bolt replacement campaign,...
Assessing the danger of bolts at coastal crags. A proposal by Maurizio Oviglia
27/02/2026 - Climbing
Assessing the danger of bolts at coastal crags. A proposal by Maurizio Oviglia
The safety of bolts on climbs close to the sea remains a very important issue, not only at the crags and multipitch routes on Sardinia and those overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, but also elsewhere. To avoid future accidents due to bolt failure, Maurizio Oviglia calls for greater awareness among all...
Chasing Shadows: Benjamin Védrines' compelling climb on K2
12/02/2026 - Alpinism
Chasing Shadows: Benjamin Védrines' compelling climb on K2
The film Chasing Shadows tells the compelling journey of Benjamin Védrines on K2. After an initial attempt where tragedy was narrowly avoided, Védrines is more determined than ever to achieve an extraordinary feat: climb the world's second highest mountain in a single day, without supplementary oxygen, and fly down by...
Video: Yashkuk Sar first ascent in Pakistan by August Franzen, Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler
14/01/2026 - Alpinism
Video: Yashkuk Sar first ascent in Pakistan by August Franzen, Dane Steadman, Cody Winckler
The documentary of the award-winning first ascent of Yashkuk Sar in Pakistan, carried out by the American alpinists August Franzen, Dane Steadman and Cody Winckler from 19 - 23 September 2024.
Marco Sappa repeats Necronomicon in Canyonlands, USA
01/12/2025 - Climbing
Marco Sappa repeats Necronomicon in Canyonlands, USA
Marco Sappa has made the sixth ascent of ‘Necronomicon’ (5.13d/14a) in Moab, Canyonlands, USA. The horizontal roof crack was first climbed in 2011 by Jean-Pierre Ouellet.
Elias Iagnemma establishes Exodia, possibile first 9A+ boulder in the world
17/11/2025 - Climbing
Elias Iagnemma establishes Exodia, possibile first 9A+ boulder in the world
On 10 November 2025, Elias Iagnemma established 'Exodia' at Rifugio Barbara in Val Pellice, Italy. The Italian climber has put forward the grade 9A+/V18, making it the first of its grade and quite possibly the hardest boulder problem in the world.
Rob Matheson and 'The Bells, The Bells!' interview
14/11/2025 - Interviews
Rob Matheson and 'The Bells, The Bells!' interview
Interview with British climber Rob Matheson who, aged 74, in April 2025 made an audacios repeat of 'The Bells, The Bells!', one of the most fearsome trad climbs in Great Britain. Located on North Stack Wall at Gogarth, it has only seen a handful of repeats since its first ascent...
Russians climb big new route on Manaslu Southwest Face
03/11/2025 - Alpinism
Russians climb big new route on Manaslu Southwest Face
From 12 - 27 October 2025 the Russian mountaineers Natalia Belyankina, Kirill Eizeman, Sergey Kondrashkin, Vitaly Shipilov and Andrey Vasilyev established a new route on the southwest face of Manaslu (8163m). The Russians climbed alpine style, without Sherpa support or supplementary oxygen. Anna Piunova reports.
Pre-Muir Wall on El Capitan repeated by Camilla Moroni, Pietro Vidi
28/10/2025 - Climbing
Pre-Muir Wall on El Capitan repeated by Camilla Moroni, Pietro Vidi
Camilla Moroni and Pietro Vidi from Italy have successfully repeated the 'Pre-Muir Wall' on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley, USA.
Gasherbrum III, Kaqur Kangri & Yashkuk Sar win the Piolets d’Or 2025
28/10/2025 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum III, Kaqur Kangri & Yashkuk Sar win the Piolets d’Or 2025
The Piolets d'Or 2025 will be awarded to the following climbs: the west ridge of Gasherbrum III in Nepal by Aleš Česen and Tom Livingstone, the southwest arête of Kaqur Kangri in Nepal by Spencer Gray and Ryan Griffiths, and the north pillar of Yashkuk Sar in the Karakoram...
New Greenland climbs by Ben Kent & Robbie Milne
24/10/2025 - Alpinism
New Greenland climbs by Ben Kent & Robbie Milne
Ben Kent reports about the climbing expedition to West Greenland last summer with Robbie Milne which resulted in three big new routes: 'Optimisme' (TD+ 6b, M5, 930m), 'Duddon Valley Syndrome' (E3/4 6a, 610m) and 'Simon’s Route' (E3 6a/A1, 868m). The climbs are all located on unnamed peaks close to Lake...
Autobelay accidents, reversing the trend in Norway
27/08/2025 - Climbing
Autobelay accidents, reversing the trend in Norway
The International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation recently published a paper about how Norway successfully dealt with an alarming wave of autobelay accidents. The article is republished with kind permission of the UIAA.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites): online reservation obligatory to drive to Rifugio Auronzo car park
23/05/2025 - Environment
Tre Cime di Lavaredo (Dolomites): online reservation obligatory to drive to Rifugio Auronzo car park
The Tre Cime di Lavaredo toll road that leads from Misurina to Rifugio Auronzo and the car park reopens on Sunday 25 May 2025. As of this season, online booking is necessary in advance, via the municipality of Auronzo website.
Hamish McArthur makes second ascent of 'Megatron' (9A) in Eldorado Canyon
25/04/2025 - Climbing
Hamish McArthur makes second ascent of 'Megatron' (9A) in Eldorado Canyon
British climber Hamish McArthur has made the second ascent of 'Megatron' in the Eldorado Canyon, USA. The V17 (Font 9A) boulder was established by Shawn Raboutou in 2022.
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
30/12/2024 - Climbing
Climbing in Sardinia, SW coast: news and crag safety
Maurizio Oviglia shares the latest news and discusses the curent safety situation of sport crags in Sardinia. This first chapter is dedicated to the wild southwest coast and the crags at Gonnesa, Iglesias, Buggerru and Masua.

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