From 30 April to 4 May 2014 Melloblocco, the world's biggest bouldering and climbing meeting, returns to Val di Mello - Val Masino, Italy. Almost 1200 climbers have already pre-registered for this event. Simone Pedeferri and the team of route setters are hard at work preparing the boulder problems and new areas of this 11th edition.
Marco Anghileri 'Butch', 41 years old, great alpinist from Lecco and member of the Gamma climbing club, extremely well known, loved and held in high regard by the entire mountaineering world, has died on the Central Pillar of Mont Blanc. The body was recovered this morning by the Valle d'Aosta Mountain Rescue service.
A brief and by no means complete journey through the stories and the climbs of 2013, while waiting for new year.
Rossana Podestà died in Rome today aged 79. The famous Italian actress was also life partner of Walter Bonatti.
In September Hervé Barmasse with Martin Castrillo made the first winter ascent of Cerro Pollone and with Martin Castrillo and Pedrito el "fino" the first ascent (in winter) of two of the three Colmillos summits in the Cordon Marconi area.
Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck talks about his fast and impressive solo ascent up the South Face of Annapurna South (8091m, Nepal, Himalaya) that on 8 and 9 October 2013 enabled him to make the first ascent of the direct line attempted in 1992 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and Pierre Beghin.
On Friday 7/09/2013 during the 8th edition of Arco Rock Legends the Salewa Rock Award was won by Adam Ondra while Mina Markovic won the La Sportiva Competition Award. Paraclimbing and all Paraclimbers received the prestigious prize Climbing Ambassador by Aquafil.
On 12/08/2013 Corrado De Monte, known to all as Icaro, fell to his death while reaching base of Torre Iolanda in Moiazza (Dolomites). Born in Trieste 53 years ago, the Italian alpinist, caver and mountain guide was one of the most popular characters in the climbing and mountaineering world.
Interview with Lorenzo Di Nozzi, the author of Valsesia - pasture portraits, a book of photographs that documents the two-year journey with the shepherds high up in the Sesia Valley (Monte Rosa).
In this interview we ask Simone Moro, Maurizio Folini and Armin Senoner to speak about their helicopter rescue operations carried out between April and May this year in the Nepalese Himalayas, about their records but also about the prospects and difficulties of operating on the highest mountains in the world. An activity, it is worth remembering, that is still in its early stages.
Interview with Alessandro Bau about the massive new route first ascended and then freed up Punta Tissi (NW face of Civetta, Dolomites) together with Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini.
5/05/2013. The last day of the 10th Melloblocco. 10 days of climbing and bouldering to reaffirm the indissoluble bond between Val Masino - Val di Mello and the Melloblockers. All 2,000 climbers have promised to return next year.
We briefly talked with Simone Moro, currently at Everest Base Camp after he, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked at 7200m on their way to Camp 3 on Everest. Here is his account of this incredible, terrifying incident which will require time to understand and comprehend.
On 27/4/2013 Simone Moro, Ueli Steck and Jon Griffith were attacked by a group of Sherpa while climbing to acclimatise at Camp 3 on Everest. The aggression continued at Camp 2.
Some thoughts about the Jury verdict of the 21st Piolet d'Or 2013 which assigned the award to all six nominated ascents.
On 27/01/2013 Croatian climber Ivan Lisica-Lija made the third repeat of Il Maratoneta, the legendary route first climbed by Maurizio "Manolo" Zanolla at Paklenica (Croatia).
Part 2 - from July to December - of what happened in alpinism and climbing in 2012.
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves as a reminder and as a source on inspiration for the coming future.
On Tuesday 31/07/2012 Courmayeur staged the Bonatti Day and show "A way of being, words by and about Walter Bonatti". Rossana Podesta attended the evening and her new film was screened in which she talks about her Walter Bonatti. Information about the show as well as the video and thoughts by Rossana Podesta.
The race towards the highest mountain on earth: a multitude of summits, long queues and, like every year, too many deaths. By Vinicio Stefanello.
