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Brenta Base Camp #1 - meetings, new climbs and lightening bolts
18/08/2014 - Alpinism
Brenta Base Camp #1 - meetings, new climbs and lightening bolts
The first report of the Brenta Base Camp, the small 'expedition' into the the heart of the Brenta Dolomites during the Discover Brenta Dolomites event to celebrate the 150th anniversary of the first traverse of this massif. Alessandro Beber reports about Scintilla (450m, VIII), the new climb up the East...
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
14/08/2014 - Alpinism
Astro Zap on Trident du Tacul by Bassanini and Camurri
On 4/09/2013 Giovani Bassanini and Lamberto Camurri made the first ascent of Astro Zap (7a), a line that climbs the crack avoided by the Via Diretta Bonatti, first climbed by Walter Bonatti and Cosimo Zappelli in 1963 up Le Trident du Tacul in the Mont Blanc massif.
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
12/08/2014 - Alpinism
Ak-Su valley, two new rock climbs by Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo
A great and intense and climbing trip to the Ak-su Valley (Pamir Alay, Kyrgyzstan) resulted in two new climbs and three repeats for the Italian alpinists Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo. Schiera provides the report.
Muzzerone Parete Centrale climbing ban
11/08/2014 - Climbing
Muzzerone Parete Centrale climbing ban
As of 6/08/2014 the Comune di Porto Venere (La Spezia) has prohibited climbing on and access to Parete Centrale, Monte Muzzerone.
Abella de la Conca: new routes and video
07/08/2014 - Climbing
Abella de la Conca: new routes and video
New sport climbs have been added and freed at Abella de la Conca in Spain by Klemen Becan Caroline Ciavaldini , Enzo Oddo, Kevin Aglae, Kevin Aglae, Jonas Schachtsneider, and James Pearson. The video by Francisco Taranto Jr.
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
06/08/2014 - Alpinism
New ice climbs in Chile by Cecilia Buil and Anna Torretta in Chile
In mid-July Cecilia Buil from Spain and Anna Torretta from Italy made the first ascent of La Gioconda (160m, WI 6) a new ice climb on the glacier Cerro El Marmolejo (6109m, Chile) to which they then added the variation Le Bombardier (30m, WI 6-). The report by Anna Torretta.
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
05/08/2014 - Alpinism
Blåmannen Ikaros: the first free ascent by Thomas Meling
On 9 June 2013 Thomas Meling made the first free ascent of Ikaros (7c), first climbed by Robert Caspersen, alone, in 1994 up the North Face of Blåmannen, Norway. The full report by Meling.
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014
04/08/2014 - Events
The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival 2014
The program of the The North Face Kalymnos Climbing Festival, to be held on the Greek island from 9 to 12 October 2014. The third edition will feature climbing legends of the '80s and '90s such as: Patxi Arocena John Dunne, Yuji Hirayama, Gerhard Hörhager, Beat Kammerlander, Jean-Baptiste Tribout and...
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
03/08/2014 - Alpinism
Then and now: the Lecco route on Grand Capucin
Matteo Della Bordella and Arianna Colliard and the ascent of the Lecco route up the SE Face of Grand Capucin, put up in 1968 by the Ragni di Lecco climbers Aldo Anghileri, Guerino Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri and Pino Negri. A story to remember a great route up the...
Dent du Géant, new climb by Baud, Bouillanne and Charlet
01/08/2014 - Alpinism
Dent du Géant, new climb by Baud, Bouillanne and Charlet
On 29 June the French alpinists Christopher Baud, Brice Bouillanne and Jonathan Charlet made the first ascent of 'Cœurs de géant' (560m, ED M5+), a new route up the Dent du Géant, Mont Blanc massif.
Arco Rock Legends: the 2014 nominations
30/07/2014 - Events
Arco Rock Legends: the 2014 nominations
Friday, August 29, 2014 Arco Rock Legends celebrates its ninth edition by assigning, during the Rock Master Festival, the two prestigious sport climbing Oscars entitled Salewa Rock Award and La Sportiva Competition Award. Those nominated for the Salewa Rock Award are Alexander Megos, Adam Ondra and Muriel Sarkany, while Sachi...
DoloMitiche 2.0: Brenta Base Camp time
25/07/2014 - Alpinism
DoloMitiche 2.0: Brenta Base Camp time
The Brenta Base Camp kicks off from 29 July to 7 August in the Italian Brenta Dolomites, an event that aims to climb three new multi-pitch routes close to the Pedrotti alla Tosa mountain hut. A short interview with the alpinist and man behind the initiative, Alessandro Beber.
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
22/07/2014 - Interviews
Michel Piola interview: climbing on Mont Blanc, the search and the story that continues
The fabulous world of Babette, or rather Mont Blanc's marvelous granite climbing, starting from Envers des Aiguilles. Interview with Michel Piola, one of the most prolific alpinists in the world who, in more than 30 years of activity, has left an indelible mark on climbing. His routes are considered priceless,...
Leopoldo Faria climbing at Cabo da Roca, Portugal
21/07/2014 - Climbing
Leopoldo Faria climbing at Cabo da Roca, Portugal
The video of Leopoldo Faria climbing at Cabo da Roca, the westernmost tip of Portugal
Lead World Cup 2014: Jain Kim and Sachi Amma claim gold in Briançon
21/07/2014 - Competitions
Lead World Cup 2014: Jain Kim and Sachi Amma claim gold in Briançon
Jain Kim from South Korea and Sachi Amma from Japan won the 25th edition of the ex Serre Chevalier Masters (now the Briançon World Cup), that came to a close with the beautiful semi-finals on Saturday evening, pushed forward to by a day in order to avoid Sunday's bad weather.
Massi della Luna, bouldering in Alta Valle Gesso
21/07/2014 - Climbing
Massi della Luna, bouldering in Alta Valle Gesso
Claudia Colonia and Alessandro Penna introduce the bouldering area I Massi della Luna, Alta Valle Gesso (Cuneese Alps) within Italy's beautiful Maritime Alps Nature Park.

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