1728 News found

Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet and the Frenchmen Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have made the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO), a new difficult route up the North Face of the Matterhorn.

On 15 June Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia carried out the first free ascent of Umbras (300m 8a max, 7b+ obl.). They had made the first ascent of this rout up the N Face of Punta Cusidore (Sardinia) in 2008.

On Saturday 20 June Dave Macleod carried out the first ascent of Kolus E8 6c on Torridon, Scotland.

Stable weather in Alaska has resulted in a flurry of new routes by a series of British teams.

On a recent trip to Namibia the Americans Majka Burhardt, Peter Doucette and Kate Rutherford carried out the first ascent of two new routes on Brandberg.

Denis Urubko, with his recent new route up the SE Face of Cho Oyu, has climbed all fourteen 8000m summits.

In June 2008 Diego Cociancich, Stefano Zaleri and Marco Zebochin made the first ascents of two new routes in Turkey's Ala Daglar mountain range, Obelix 6b, 340m and L’armata Brancaleone 7a, 360m.

Americans Joseph Puryear and David Gottlieb have made the first ascent of Jobo Rinjang (6,778 meters) via the direct South Face. This mountain is a satellite summit in the Lunag massif, Khumbu Region of Nepal.

Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...

Polish mountaineer Piotr Morawski died on Dhaulagiri on 8 April after falling 20m into a crevasse. Piotr Drozdz, a friend and editor of the Polish Gory magazine, has sent us this text in memory of Morawski.

On 21 March Luca Maspes, Emanuel Panizza and Christian Turk carried out the first ascent of the ESE Face of Morteratsch (3751m) in the Bernina mountain range.

Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.

The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...

Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.

In December 2008 the Austrians David Lama, Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven travelled to Cochamo Valley in Chile and climbed a series of new routes in this granite valley.

From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.