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Alex Honnold, Hansjörg Auer and the Oscar winning Free Solo in Climbing Sparkling Moments #8
20/08/2021 - Climbing
Alex Honnold, Hansjörg Auer and the Oscar winning Free Solo in Climbing Sparkling Moments #8
The eighth episode of La Sportiva's Climbing Sparkling Moments retraces the incredible free solo climbs of Freerider on El Capitan (Yosemite) carried out by Alex Honnold in 2017, and the Fish route (Via del Pesce) on Marmolada (Dolomites) completed by Hansjörg Auer in 2007. Honnold's feat was documented Free Solo...
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
16/08/2021 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East SE Ridge attempted by Tom Livingstone, Mathieu Maynadier
In June 2021 Tom Livingstone and Mathieu Maynadier attempted the unclimbed SE Ridge of Pumari Chhish East in Pakistan. Due to prohibitive conditions they descended from 6750m.
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
09/08/2021 - Alpinism
Super Canalizos, a perfect sculpture completed on Huanka Punta in Peru by Pou brothers, Manu Ponce
On the SE Face of Huanka Punta in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, Spanish alpinists Eneko Pou, Iker Pou e Manu Ponce have established Super Canalizos (6c+, 475m) describing the multi-pitch climb as a ‘perfect sculpture.’
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...
Concha de Caracol South Face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
21/07/2021 - Alpinism
Concha de Caracol south face new route in Peru by Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin, Alex Torres
Alpinists Anna Pfaff, Andres Marin and Alex Torres have made the first ascent of Cerveza, Pan y Ácido, a new mixed climb up the south face of Concha de Caracol in the Cordillera Vilcanota massif in Peru.
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
15/07/2021 - Alpinism
Nevado Huamashraju Este, new route in Peru by Iker and Enenko Pou
Enenko and Iker Pou have made the first ascent of ¡Viva Perú Carajo !, a new mixed climb up the south face of Nevado Huamashraju East in Peru. At the same time their expedition partners Manu Ponce and Micher Quito also established a new route up the mountain’s north face.
First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
10/07/2021 - Alpinism
First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
In November 2020 Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren, Sebastian Rojas, Nicolas Valderrama and Galo Viguera scored the first ski descent of south face of Monte San Valentin, at 4058m the highest mountain in Patagonia. De Andraca and Rojas with Cristonal Diaz and Diego Saez completed the first winter ascent and...
Zero climbed on Torre del Lago (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
27/06/2021 - Alpinism
Zero climbed on Torre del Lago (Dolomites) by Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher
On 28 May 2021 the two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher made the first ascent of Zero, a new multi-pitch route on Torre del Lago (Fanis, Dolomites).
Cocktail Sans Glace savoured on Pic Coolidge, Écrins, by Markus Kirch, James Price
23/06/2021 - Alpinism
Cocktail Sans Glace savoured on Pic Coolidge, Écrins, by Markus Kirch, James Price
German alpinist Markus Kirch reports about the first ascent of Cocktail Sans Glace, a new mixed route established in mid-May with James Price and on the North Face of Pic Coolidge in the Massif des Écrins, France.
David Göttler climbs Peña Vieja in Picos de Europa with 81-year-old father
18/06/2021 - Alpinism
David Göttler climbs Peña Vieja in Picos de Europa with 81-year-old father
German alpinist David Göttler has climbed Peña Vieja (2613m) in the Picos de Europa massif in Spain via the route El Espolon de los Franceses. 17 pitches followed by a long and exposed ridge, with his 81-year-old father.
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite
11/06/2021 - Interviews
Bronwyn Hodgins repeats Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite
Interview with 28-year-old Canadian rock climber Bronwyn Hodgins who this spring made a free ascent of the 5.13a big wall Golden Gate on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Monte Colodri, Arco: Via per Giuliano established by Marco Pellegrini, Francesco Salvaterra
21/05/2021 - Alpinism
Monte Colodri, Arco: Via per Giuliano established by Marco Pellegrini, Francesco Salvaterra
On the south face of Monte Colodri in Arco in Italy, the mountain guides Francesco Salvaterra and Marco Pellegrini have established a new multi-pitch dedicated to Giuliano Stenghel. Salvaterra reports and the topo
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
20/05/2021 - Alpinism
Kangchung Shar North Face first ascent by Jaroslava Bansky, Zdenek Hak
Czech alpinists Zdeněk Hák and Jaroslava Bánský have successfully completed the first traverse of Kangchung Shar (6030m) in Nepal. They climbed the north face of the mountain into the saddle between Kangchung Shar and Cholo, then followed the NW ridge to the top, returned to the saddle and descended the...
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
15/04/2021 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse solos all six Matterhorn ridges
On Wednesday 3 March 2021 Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse soloed Via De Amicis on the Matterhorn. With this ascent the 43-year-old mountaineer from Valle d'Aosta closed the circle, becoming the first to solo all six ridges of the Matterhorn.
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
06/04/2021 - Alpinism
Seán Villanueva climbs two new routes on El Mocho in Patagonia
The report by Belgian alpinist Seán Villanueva O’Driscoll who this season has established two new rock climbs on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia: Chalten Sin Clecas (Chalten without tickmarks) with Mecha Rocamora and Chalten sin Chapas” (Chalten without bolts) with Matías Korten.

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