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Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
18/12/2018 - Alpinism
Cogne ice climbing: mountain guides in defence of Bearded Vulture in Valnontey
planetmountain.com has received and is publishing the press release of the Italian Mountain Guides regarding the Bearded Vulture in Valnontey (Cogne). Ice climbing is currently prohibited on the Money summit plateau and the adjacent icefalls: L’ago di Money, Di fianco alla leggenda, Repentance super, La volpe e l’uva, Monday Money,...
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
13/12/2018 - Alpinism
Teufelsgeige, new mixed climb in Langental, Dolomites
Ice climbing in the Dolomites: in Langental, Dolomites, Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayer have made the first ascent of Teufelsgeige (125m, WI5+, M6), a new mixed climb circa 30 meters to the right of the classic icefall Piovra.
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
08/12/2018 - Alpinism
Airport, possible new ice climb in Langental, Dolomites, by Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr
In Langental (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have climbed a possible new icefall they have called Airport. The line runs to the left of the classic Jumbo Jet drip and has been graded WI5+ M4 160m. Ladurner reports.
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
30/10/2018 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.
Dani Arnold climbing Helmcken Falls Power Shrimps
27/10/2018 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold climbing Helmcken Falls Power Shrimps
The video of Dani Arnold climbing Power Shrimps, the ice climb he freed in February 2018 ay Helmcken Falls in Canada.
Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr
23/10/2018 - Alpinism
Ortles NE Face, possible new mixed climb by Durogati, Ladurner, Lemayr
On the NE Face of Ortles, the highest mountain in the South Tyrol, Daniel Ladurner, Hannes Lemayr and Aaron Durogati climbed what might well be a big new mixed climb.
Eleonora Delnevo & Co climb El Capitan Zodiac in Yosemite
12/10/2018 - Climbing
Eleonora Delnevo & Co climb El Capitan Zodiac in Yosemite
Eleonora Delnevo - the Italian paraclimber paralysed from the waist down after a mountaineering accident in 2015 - has climbed the Zodiac route on El Capitan in Yosemite together with Mauro Gibellini, Diego Pezzoli and Antonio Pozzi.
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
14/09/2018 - Alpinism
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz has completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
08/08/2018 - Interviews
Hansjörg Auer: Lupghar Sar West solo interview
Interview with Austrian alpinist Hansjörg Auer after his July 2018 solo ascent of Lupghar Sar West, a 7181 meter peak in the Karakorum, Pakistan.
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
02/08/2018 - Alpinism
Grivel 200: alpinism, climbing gear, techniques and evolutioN
Second episode dedicated to Espace Grivel, or to the first 200 years of the history of Grivel and alpinism.
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon
20/07/2018 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 / Nanga Parbat by Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara, Alex Txikon
The 5th Karl Unterkircher Award was awarded on 14 July 2018 in Selva di Val Gardena, Italy to Simone Moro who, together with Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon, carried out the first winter ascent of Nanga Parbat in February 2016. The other climbers that had been nominated Ines Papert and...
Adieu Stéphane Husson
25/06/2018 - Alpinism
Adieu Stéphane Husson
French mountain guide Stéphane Husson and a 16-year-old teenager lost their lives in a climbing accident.
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition
25/05/2018 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2018 nominees for 5th edition
On July 14, 2018 Selva di Val Gardena will host the fifth edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award in memory of the South Tyrolean alpinist who died ten years ago on Nanga Parbat. The alpinists nominated for the 2018 award are Simone Moro, Ali Sadpara and Alex Txikon for the...
Thomas Bubendorfer climbs new route up Großglockner after Dolomites accident
10/05/2018 - Alpinism
Thomas Bubendorfer climbs new route up Großglockner after Dolomites accident
13 months after his life-threatening accident at Sottoguda in the Dolomites, Austrian mountaineer Thomas Bubendorfer has established a new mixed climb up on the South Face of Grossglockner (3798 m) in Austria. The new route is called Das dritte Leben, The Third life, and Bubendorfer established the line with Max...
Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner climb new ice in Iceland
23/03/2018 - Alpinism
Albert Leichtfried, Benedikt Purner climb new ice in Iceland
In Iceland the Austrian alpinists Albert Leichtfried and Benedikt Purner have made the first ascent of the new mixed climb Shelter of the gods M10.
Jumbo Jet direct start in Val Lietres, Dolomites
14/03/2018 - Alpinism
Jumbo Jet direct start in Val Lietres, Dolomites
In Val Lietres (Puez - Geisler group, Dolomites) Daniel Ladurner and Hannes Lemayr have added a direct start, up rock, to the famous icefall Jumbo Jet. With this new variant the route tackles overall difficulties up to M7 WI5+.

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