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Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
23/04/2010 - Alpinism
Monte Sarmiento, Patagonia, North Face first ascent
At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the North Face.
  • CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986
  • Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
    14/04/2010 - Climbing
    Outsider, 8a+ for Angelika Rainer at Cornalba
    Angelika Rainer and her repeat of Outsider at Cornalba.
    Rainbow Slab, Llanberis slate climbing in North Wales
    14/04/2010 - Climbing
    Rainbow Slab, Llanberis slate climbing in North Wales
    Rainbow Slab is arguably the jewel in the crown of Llanberis slate. The immense, smooth face is broken by a series of smaller ripples and of course by the rainbow itself, a pulsing vein which arches steeply in all its beauty from right to left.
    Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
    01/04/2010 - Environment
    Dolomite passes, possible traffic limitations
    Reducing the traffic in the Dolomites, an initiative promoted by the Governor the the Trentino region, the SAT, the CAI (Italian Mountaineering Club), the Bolzano Mountaineering Club and also Reinhold Messner.
    25th Pierra Menta
    16/03/2010 - Competitions
    25th Pierra Menta
    The four day ski mountaineering marathon in Arêches-Beaufort (France) was won by the Spanish-Swiss team comprised of Kilian Jornet Burgada and Florent Troillet. The women's event was won by the Italians Francesca Martinelli and Roberta Pedranzini.
    Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
    08/03/2010 - Competitions
    Sellaronda, one long roller coaster of emotions
    On 05/03/2010 the 15th Sellaronda Skimarathon, the historic ski mountaineering race in the Dolomites, was won by Guido Giacomelli and Hansjoerg Lunger ahead of Thomas Martini and Matteo Pedergnana, followed by Ivan Antiga and Trettel Thomas. The womens' event was won by the Weger and Gross. The extenuating and freezing...
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    03/03/2010 - Climbing
    Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
    In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
    When icefalls crack
    25/02/2010 - Alpinism
    When icefalls crack
    The story of an ice pillar collapsing. An adventure which thankfully resulted in no injuries, but which provides ample food for thought...
    Argentiere Rive Gauche new mixed climbs
    24/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Argentiere Rive Gauche new mixed climbs
    A handful of British climbers have established a series of new mixed routes at the Rive Gauche, Chamonix.
    Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
    23/02/2010 - Competitions
    Sport climbing is now fully recognised by the IOC. Interview with IFSC President Marco Scolaris.
    The International Olympic Committee (IOC) has ratified and recognised the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) during its Plenary Session at Vancouver, Canada. As the President of the IFSC Marco Scolaris explains, this is a fundamental step for sport climbing in its bid to become an Olympic sport.
    Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
    04/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Never Ever Say Never, new Scafell Buttress winter climb by Dave Birkett
    Last weekend Dave Birkett climbed what is being hailed as one of the most important new winter routes in Britain's Lake District for the last quarter of a century, Never Ever Say Never VIII 8 or E7 5c on Scafell's East Buttress.
    Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by  Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
    03/02/2010 - Climbing
    Waiting for Godot, Torres del Paine, Patagonia first ascent by Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
    Diary extract and interview with Hansjörg Auer after the first ascent of Waiting for Godot, Central Tower Torres del Paine, Patagonia, carried out with Much Mayr from Austria.
    Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
    01/02/2010 - Alpinism
    Tawoche Central South Buttress by Renan Ozturk and Cory Richards
    In mid-January Renan Ozturk (USA) and Cory Richards (CAN) carried out the first ascent of the Central South Buttress of Tawoche (Khumbu Valley, Nepal) in alpine style (1200m ED2 VI 5.10 M4/5).
    Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
    23/01/2010 - Alpinism
    Luca Vuerich killed by avalanche
    On 22 January 2010, 34 year old Italian mountaineer Luca Vuerich was killed by an avalanche while climbing an icefall at Prisojinik, close to Kranjska Gora on the Italian-Slovenian border. Vuerich was rescued and transported to hospital in Udine, where he died of his injuries.
    Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
    20/01/2010 - Alpinism
    Rudolf Hauser: solo ascent of Supervisor and first integral ascent of Gamsstubenfall in the Gasteinertal
    On 4 Janaury 2010 the Austrian climbers Rudolf Hauser, Alexander Holleis and Rupert Huber carried out the first integral ascen of Gamsstubenfall (800m, WI7), one of the last great icefalls in the Gasteinertal, Austria. On 12 January Hauser climbed the classic icefall Supervisor (270m, WI6) without a rope.
    Ouray Ice Festival 2010
    17/01/2010 - Events
    Ouray Ice Festival 2010
    The fifteenth international Ice Festival took place in Ouray (USA) a fortnight ago. The event attracted thousands of ice climbers and the competition was won by Josh Wharton (USA) and Ines Papert (GER). Will Gadd from Canada climbed almost 8000m of vertical ice in a 24 hour non-stop marathon to...