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Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
14/02/2011 - Alpinism
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
On Sunday 13 February Fabio Valseschini from Lecco, Italy, completed the first solo winter ascent of the great Via dei Cinque di Valmadrera (1350m, VI+ A3) on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites. After 7 bivvies on the mountain and an 8th beneath the summit, Valseschini completed the undertaking today...
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
A series of hard repeats and first ascents on Ben Nevis, Coire an t-Sneachda and Lochnagar, including the second ascent of The Hurting (XI,11 Dave MacLeod, 2005) by Andy Turner.
Il Regalo della Befana, new icefall in Val Grande, Dolomites
21/01/2011 - Alpinism
Il Regalo della Befana, new icefall in Val Grande, Dolomites
On 6/01/2011 the Italians Dario De Rossi, Renato Bortolato & C., carried out what is thought to be the first ascent of Il Regalo della Befana (110m II,4), inVal Grande (Santo Stefano di Cadore, Belluno, Dolomites).
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
04/01/2011 - Alpinism
Chad new rock climbs in Ennedi desert
At the end of 2010 James Pearson, Mark Synnott, Renan Ozturk and Alex Honnold established a series of new routes in the Ennedi Range in Chad.
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
29/12/2010 - Alpinism
Cascata Per Leo, rare icefall on Sorapiss, Dolomites
On 21 December Giuseppe 'Beppe' Ballico and Marco Milanese climbed "Cascata Per Leo" (270m, IV, WI 5+ XR) a beautiful icefall which rarely comes into condition on the SW Face of Croda Marcora (Sorapiss, Dolomites).
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
14/12/2010 - Alpinism
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
Ski mountaineering on the largest glacier in the Italian Alps. Five ski tours described by the Mountain Guide Cain Olsen: Calotta, Ficazza, Pisgana, Pisganino and the legendary Adamello Tour.
Colin Haley, first solo of Cerro Standhardt and Exocet in Patagonia
01/12/2010 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, first solo of Cerro Standhardt and Exocet in Patagonia
American alpinist Colin Haley has carried out the first solo ascent of Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia, via the route Exocet (500m, WI5, 5.9).
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Lleida, sport climbing in Spain
18/11/2010 - Climbing
Lleida, sport climbing in Spain
Lleida in Spain has been developing fast into one of the world's premier sport climbing areas, thanks in great part to one of the main activists, Dani Andrada. Pete O'Donovan introduces the Catalonian delights.
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
28/10/2010 - Alpinism
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
American alpinist Joseph Puryear has died in Tibet while attempting Labuche Kang (7367m) together with David Gottlieb.
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.