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More hard US trad at the New River Gorge and Shawagunks
22/12/2010 - Climbing
More hard US trad at the New River Gorge and Shawagunks
At the Shawagunks Brian Kim established the trad route Monumental 5.13d, while at the New River Gorge Brett Perkins climbed Proper Soul 5.14a R/X without bolts but with trad gear.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Colin Haley, first solo of Cerro Standhardt and Exocet in Patagonia
01/12/2010 - Alpinism
Colin Haley, first solo of Cerro Standhardt and Exocet in Patagonia
American alpinist Colin Haley has carried out the first solo ascent of Cerro Standhardt, Patagonia, via the route Exocet (500m, WI5, 5.9).
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
19/11/2010 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
10/11/2010 - Alpinism
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger have failed 200m shy of the summit in an attempt to establish a new line up Mount Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan.
Anthamatten blitzclimb Yosemite valley
10/11/2010 - Climbing
Anthamatten blitzclimb Yosemite valley
In autumn 2010 Simon and Samuel Anthamatten from Switzerland blitzed the West Face, Lurking Fear, Zodiac, Tangerine Trip, Lost in America, North American Wall, Mescalito, The Nose, Salathé and the Linkup Half Dome - The Nose in Yosemite Valley, USA
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
09/11/2010 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
On 22/10/2010 in Korea's capital Seoul the Japanese alpinists Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama won the fifth edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, while the lifetime achievement award went to their fellow countryman Tsuneo Hasegawa.
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
08/11/2010 - Climbing
The Nose, new record on El Capitan by Leary and Potter
Sean Leary and Dean Potter have set a new Speed record on The Nose, El Capitan, climbing the route in 2:36:45
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.
Dave Birkett adds major new route to Dyer's Lookout
04/11/2010 - Climbing
Dave Birkett adds major new route to Dyer's Lookout
British rock climber Dave Birkett has carried out the first ascent of Once Upon a Time in the Southwest E9 6c at Dyer's Lookout, Devon, England.
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
02/11/2010 - Alpinism
Menhir on Sass dla Crusc, new route by Tondini and Irsara
On 03/09/2010 Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara carried out the first free ascent of Menhir (200m, IX- (7b+), R3, III; EX). The two had established the route between 10 - 26 July 2010 up the Pilastro di Mezzo on the West Face of the Sass dla Crusc (Fanis, Dolomites, Italy).
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.
Michele Caminati bouldering hard at Fontainebleau
22/10/2010 - Climbing
Michele Caminati bouldering hard at Fontainebleau
Michele Caminati from Italy has repeated The Island Fb8b+ at Fontainebleau, France.
Manolo sends Stramonio, Erba dei ladri in Val Noana
20/10/2010 - Climbing
Manolo sends Stramonio, Erba dei ladri in Val Noana
On 10 October 2010 Maurizio Manolo Zanolla freed Stramonio, a 30m route in Val Noana, Dolomites.

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