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Slovenian winter climbing report by Urban Golob
18/02/2011 - Alpinism
Slovenian winter climbing report by Urban Golob
Urban Golob reports about the winter ascents in Slovenia by climbers such as Andrej Grmovsek, Luka Krajnc, Dejan Koren, Aljaz Anderle, Marko Prezelj and many more.
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
16/02/2011 - Alpinism
Triglav, hard winter ascent in Slovenia by Grmovsek and Krajnc
Interview with Andrej Grmovsek who over a three day period in January and February 2011 carried out an extremely important winter ascent up the North Face of Triglav (2864m) together with fellow Slovenian alpinist Luka Krajnc: Sanjski Joža (VI/V,M7+, 1050m).
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
14/02/2011 - Alpinism
Civetta NW Face, first winter solo ascent by Fabio Valseschini
On Sunday 13 February Fabio Valseschini from Lecco, Italy, completed the first solo winter ascent of the great Via dei Cinque di Valmadrera (1350m, VI+ A3) on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites. After 7 bivvies on the mountain and an 8th beneath the summit, Valseschini completed the undertaking today...
Pizzo della Pieve, first winter solo by Ivo Ferrari
11/02/2011 - Alpinism
Pizzo della Pieve, first winter solo by Ivo Ferrari
On 25 January 2011 Italian alpinist Ivo Ferrari made the first winter ascent of the Parete Fasana on Pizzo della Pieve (Grigne) by climbing the classic the Via Fasana.
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
28/01/2011 - Alpinism
Gasherbrum II in winter: Campo 2 for Moro, Urubko and Richards
On 25 Janaury 2011 Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards installed Camp 2 at 6500m on Gasherbrum II. In doing so they carried out another important step in their attempt to carry out the first winter ascent of the 13th highest mountain in the world.
Aiguilles du Brouillard Couloir south-west first ski descent
Aiguilles du Brouillard Couloir south-west first ski descent
On 17/01/2011 Davide Capozzi, Luca Rolli, Roch Malnuit, Laurent Dupré and Lionel Hachemy made the first descent of the SW Couloir on Aiguilles du Brouillard (P.ta Saviotti), Mont Blanc
Cerro Pollone East, first ascent in Patagonia by Kauffman and Toman
21/01/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Pollone East, first ascent in Patagonia by Kauffman and Toman
At the start of January 2011 the American alpinists Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman carried out the first ascent of Cerro Pollone East (Patagonia) by climbing Re Puesto! (V 800m 5.10 A1).
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
14/12/2010 - Alpinism
Adamello ski mountaineering in Italy
Ski mountaineering on the largest glacier in the Italian Alps. Five ski tours described by the Mountain Guide Cain Olsen: Calotta, Ficazza, Pisgana, Pisganino and the legendary Adamello Tour.
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
09/12/2010 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
Rosso 70, the film directed by Francesco Mansutti and Vinicio Stefanello and which retraces the 70 yera mountaineering history f the Scoiattoli mountaineering club in Cortina, has won the Jury's Special Prize during the Bulgaria's X° International Mountain Film Festival in Bansko
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
24/11/2010 - Alpinism
Carletto Alverà, good bye to another flag bearer of the Scoiattoli di Cortina
Yesterday morning Carletto Alverà Lete passed away at the age of 92. The Italian was the flag bearer of the Gruppo Scoiattoli di Cortina, a mountain guide and ski instructor. He takes with him another piece of the history of alpinism in Cortina and the Valle d'Ampezzo, Dolomites.
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
09/11/2010 - Alpinism
Piolet d'or Asia won by Okada and Katsutake. Hasegawa wins lifetime achievement award.
On 22/10/2010 in Korea's capital Seoul the Japanese alpinists Yasushi Okada and Katsutake Yokoyama won the fifth edition of the Piolet d'or Asia, while the lifetime achievement award went to their fellow countryman Tsuneo Hasegawa.
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
28/10/2010 - Alpinism
Joseph Puryear dies in Tibet
American alpinist Joseph Puryear has died in Tibet while attempting Labuche Kang (7367m) together with David Gottlieb.