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Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
Piolets d'Or 2012, the international alpinism festival starts today
21/03/2012 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2012, the international alpinism festival starts today
The Piolet d'Or gets underway in Courmayeur and Chamonix today and 2012 celebrates the 20th anniversary of the world's most famous alpinism award. Four days of international alpinism at the foot of Mont Blanc to discuss, watch and celebrate alpinism in all its forms, to pay homage to Walter Bonatti...
Tris Rotondo, a great success in Valle Bedretto, Switzerland
16/03/2012 - Competitions
Tris Rotondo, a great success in Valle Bedretto, Switzerland
The fith Tris Rotondo took place on 11 March in Valle Bredetto (San Gothard, Switzerland). The Super Tris event was won by Cédric Brodard, Vincent Mabboux and Nicolas Philipona, while the Main Tris (which also counted for the Swiss Championship) was won by Gerhard Schneider and Alexander Hug and by...
Loska Stena, new route by David Lama and Peter Ortner in Slovenia
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Loska Stena, new route by David Lama and Peter Ortner in Slovenia
From 25 - 27 February 2012 David Lama and Peter Ortner established a demanding new route up the North Face of Loska Stena in Slovenia.
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia
David Lama and the Cerro Torre video
23/02/2012 - Alpinism
David Lama and the Cerro Torre video
The video of David Lama and Peter Ortner and the first free ascent of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia.
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
20/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
Dean Potter, the free solo video on El Capitan in Yosemite
15/02/2012 - Climbing
Dean Potter, the free solo video on El Capitan in Yosemite
The video of Dean Potter while he free solos the final quarter of the route Freerider on El Capitan, Yosemite, USA.
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2012, the 6 nominations
The XX Piolet d'Or will take place in Courmayeur (Italy) and Chamonix (France) from 21 - 24 March 2012. Here are the 6 nominations for the coveted golden ice axe, while Frenchman Robert Paragot will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award.
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, fatal accident in Norway
14/02/2012 - Alpinism
Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal, fatal accident in Norway
Tragedy in Norway, where last week the alpinists Bjørn-Eivind Årtun and Stein-Ivar Gravdal died while attempting a new ice climb up the Kjerag rock face.
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
03/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.
Illuminati in Val Lunga for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
31/01/2012 - Alpinism
Illuminati in Val Lunga for Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer
On 27/01/2012 Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer carried out the first female ascent of Illuminati, the incredible mixed route established by Albert Leichtfried in 2006 up in Val Lunga, Selva Gardena (Italy).
Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
23/01/2012 - Competitions
Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
In Andorra history repeated itself yesterday. The first stage of the Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012 was won once again by Kilian Jornet Burgada and Laetitia Roux.
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
19/01/2012 - Alpinism
Voie Lesueur, free ascent by Steck and Griffith on Petit Dru
On the North Face of Petit Dru (3754m) Ueli Steck and Jonathan Griffith have carried out what is likely to be the first free ascent of the Voie Lesueur (ED3, M8+, 900m) with some drytooling sections and a new variation finish.
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
11/01/2012 - Climbing
Severino Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis and the crag Coup di Rore
Severino "Seve" Scassa and Lorenzo De Bonis have freed an old route at the crag Coup di Rore in Val Varaita (Piemonte, Italy). Established with the use of aid during the 1970's, the route breaches the large roof and remained a project until autumn 2011. A story of past and...

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