1499 News found

On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...

On 21 December Giuseppe 'Beppe' Ballico and Marco Milanese climbed "Cascata Per Leo" (270m, IV, WI 5+ XR) a beautiful icefall which rarely comes into condition on the SW Face of Croda Marcora (Sorapiss, Dolomites).

Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.

South Tyrolean mountain guide Simon Gietl recounts his Dolomite summer which includes, amongst others, the first ascent of his new route, Fairplay 9+/10- on Piz Boè in the Dolomites.

In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.

The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.

From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.

Stevie Haston, alpinist, ice climber and snowboarder, tells about his experience of the first ever Tor de Geants, the incredible mountain marathon which covers 330km and 24,000 vertical meters, starting and finishing at Courmayeur and completing a circle around the Valle d'Aosta, via the Gran Paradiso, Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn...

An appeal for solidarity for the family of Walter Nones, first published on the internet site www.karlunterkircher.com.

Leopoldo Faria, Rui Rosado, Ana and Bruno Silva Gaspar from Portugal have established "Off-Dido" (7a+ 550m) on the Babar Wall in the Nangmah Valley in Pakistan.

On 03/08/2010 the alpinists Stephan Siegrist, Dani Arnold and Thomas Senf carried out the4 first winter ascent of Torre Egger (2685m), Patagonia.

The Piccolo Lagazuoi crag in the Dolomites, 27 routes from 4b to 7b introduced by local activist and Mountain Guide Enrico Maioni.

From 12 to 22 July Nicolas Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto of the Greenland 2010 expedition established The Devil’s Brew (850m) on Seagull wall, Greenland.

The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainment up the massive granite Blamann tower on the island of Kvaløya in Norway. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits its first continuous redpoint ascent.

The details of an immortal route: the Cassin route up the Walker Super on the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) introduced by Mountain Guide Enrico Bonino who climbed the route last week with an (extremely strong) client, Max Lucco.

Puigblanque (ESP) and Kim (KOR) won the 25th Rock Master Lead in Arco. Lachat (SUI) and Stöhr (AUT) were victorious in the Bouldering competition, while the Speed gold medal went to Hroza (CZE) and He (CHN) and Team Spedwas won by China. The Lead Duel was won by Ondra (CZE)...