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Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
11/11/2013 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 'Marinaio di foresta' (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).
Andonno restyling by Severino Scassa
10/04/2013 - Climbing
Andonno restyling by Severino Scassa
At the historic Italian crag Andonno Severino Scassa Seve has rebolted more than 20 climbs including the famous Noia, the first 8c+ in Italy established 20 years ago. Replacing the bolts and chains was a tough, meticulous task as Scassa...
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up...
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this...
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
13/12/2012 - Alpinism
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
Luigi 'Gigi' Dal Pozzo passed away on Monday 10 December 2012 after a long illness. A leading climber and alpinist from the Belluno area of Northern Italy, Gigi Dal Pozzo played a fundamental role in the evolution of climbing in...
Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
30/05/2012 - Alpinism
Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
Antonio Boscacci, the great climber, alpinist, mathematician, writer, photographer and one of the most visionary inventors of the new climbing in Val di Mello and further afield died tody aged 63 after battling long against illness.
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
13/04/2012 - Events
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
The ninth Melloblocco, the world's most important bouldering meeting, takes place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy from 3 - 6 May 2012.
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
29/03/2012 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
From 28 February to 20 March Hansjörg Auer established The Music of Chance on the Kristallwand face up Kirchkogel in Austria
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
11/11/2011 - Climbing
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Getu Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free...
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
22/04/2011 - Climbing
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
Giuseppe 'Popi' Miotti, the visions of a climber in Val Masino – Val di Mello and the distant vertical galaxies of pure granite.
Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
15/04/2011 - Events
Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
From 5 - 8 May 2011 the 8th edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy. The Melloblocco is the biggest and most important bouldering meeting in the world and this year it is dedicated to...
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route...
Melloblocco 2010
12/05/2010 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2010
Melloblocco 2010 turned out to be a success once again. Despite the bad weather 1900 registered climbers took part in the world's largest bouldering meeting in Val di Mello, Italy from 6 - 9 May 2010. The valley was visited...
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
23/03/2010 - Alpinism
Civetta North West Face: first winter ascent of Captain Skyhook by Tondini and Baù
On 19 March 2010 Alessandro Baù and Nicola Tondini carried out the first winter ascent and third ascent overall of Captain Skyhook (500m + 380m pedestal, 7b+) on the Northwest Face of the Civetta, Dolomites.
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
09/03/2010 - Alpinism
Ice climbing in Scotland – an Ines Papert perspective
German climber Ines Papert provides her report and views of British winter climbing after her first ice climbing trip to Scotland.
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
11/02/2010 - Alpinism
Perfect winter climbing conditions in Slovenian Alps
Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.

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