138 News found

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Follie Belliche on Cima Ceremana, a first redpoint in winter, sort of...
15/03/2014 - Alpinism
Follie Belliche on Cima Ceremana, a first redpoint in winter, sort of...
On 13 March Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi made the first free ascent and first winter ascent of Follie Belliche (330m, 7b+ max, 6c+ obl.), the route they established on 30/08 and 21/09/2013 up Cima Ceremana (Lagorai, Dolomites). The report by Rolando Larcher.
Fitz Roy Traverse: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold complete first ascent in Patagonia
18/02/2014 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Traverse: Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold complete first ascent in Patagonia
From 12 - 16 February 2014 the Americans Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold completed the coveted first traverse of the major ridge line of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Il Grande Salto, the discovery of Valle Inferno in Italy's Maiella
14/01/2014 - Alpinism
Il Grande Salto, the discovery of Valle Inferno in Italy's Maiella
On 7 December 2013 Cristiano Iurisci, Massimo Zulli and Antonio Di Martino made the first ascent of Il Grande Salto (TD+, 55/65°, 75°, M3+) in the remote, inhospitable, isolated and wild Valle Inferno in Italy's Majella National Park. The story by Cristiano Iurisci of what is likely to be the...
Sardinia Bloc Scouting, the full Gallura bouldering report
17/12/2013 - Events
Sardinia Bloc Scouting, the full Gallura bouldering report
Photos, sensations and emotions from the first Sardinia Bloc Scouting tour to discover the unexplored boulders of Gallura in NE Sardinia.The report directly from the pen and the heart of his creator: Pietro Dal Prà.
Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
11/11/2013 - Climbing
Pedra Longa, Baunei. New plaisir climb in Sardinia
Maurizio Oviglia introduces 'Marinaio di foresta' (190m, 6a+ max, 5c obbl.) a new climb established in October 2013 together with Cecilia Marchi and Giorgio Caddeo up the beautiful Pedra Longa, or Agugliastra, sea stack (Baunei, Sardinia).
Andonno restyling by Severino Scassa
10/04/2013 - Climbing
Andonno restyling by Severino Scassa
At the historic Italian crag Andonno Severino Scassa Seve has rebolted more than 20 climbs including the famous Noia, the first 8c+ in Italy established 20 years ago. Replacing the bolts and chains was a tough, meticulous task as Scassa explains.
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
22/01/2013 - Alpinism
Pilastro Magno, Sassolungo first winter ascent by Milani and Travaglia
On 8, 9 and 10 January 2013, Giorgio Travaglia and Francesco Milani made the first wintere ascent - with two bivouacs - of "Pilastro Magno" (950m, VI), the route established in summer 1993 by Ivo Rabanser and Marco Furlani up the NE Face of Sassolungo (Dolomites).
The evolution of free climbing
23/12/2012 - Climbing
The evolution of free climbing
Switzerland's Claude Remy provides a chronological analysis of the evolution free climbing (bouldering and difficulty). An article which clearly is not and cannot be definitive, but is merely a stimulus for further analysis and discussion about the evolution of this sport.
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
13/12/2012 - Alpinism
For Gigi Dal Pozzo
Luigi 'Gigi' Dal Pozzo passed away on Monday 10 December 2012 after a long illness. A leading climber and alpinist from the Belluno area of Northern Italy, Gigi Dal Pozzo played a fundamental role in the evolution of climbing in the Dolomites. Sandro Neri remembers the climber.
Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
30/05/2012 - Alpinism
Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
Antonio Boscacci, the great climber, alpinist, mathematician, writer, photographer and one of the most visionary inventors of the new climbing in Val di Mello and further afield died tody aged 63 after battling long against illness.
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
13/04/2012 - Events
Melloblocco 2012 - The Bouldering Community returns to Val Masino
The ninth Melloblocco, the world's most important bouldering meeting, takes place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy from 3 - 6 May 2012.
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
29/03/2012 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer, new route The Music of Chance on Kirchkogel in Austria
From 28 February to 20 March Hansjörg Auer established The Music of Chance on the Kristallwand face up Kirchkogel in Austria
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
11/11/2011 - Climbing
Petzl Rock Trip - Valley Gétû, China
From 26 to 30 October 2011 the 10th Petzl Rock Trip took place in Getu Valley, China. Many of the world's best climbers took part in the event dedicated to climbing and partying. Gabriele Moroni from Italy managed to free a new 9a while Dani Andrada from Spain freed his...
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
22/04/2011 - Climbing
Melloblocco #1, Copper skies above Monolith by Popi Miotti
Giuseppe 'Popi' Miotti, the visions of a climber in Val Masino – Val di Mello and the distant vertical galaxies of pure granite.
Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
15/04/2011 - Events
Melloblocco 2011 - everyone's bouldering in Val Masino
From 5 - 8 May 2011 the 8th edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy. The Melloblocco is the biggest and most important bouldering meeting in the world and this year it is dedicated to the International Year of Forests.
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin Direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route and graded the undertaking Mixed M8-/rock 7a; E5; redpoint, 1800m.

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