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Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
29/03/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
On the East Face of Garden of Dionysus above Leonidio in Greece the Italian climbers Dimitri Anghileri, Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have opened Fuori di Zucca, a new 155m multi-pitch sports climb graded 7c+/8a (7b obligatory). The report by Dimitri Anghileri.
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
16/02/2016 - Climbing
La Lavagna and Luca Zardini's school of climbing
Two new sports climbs by Luca Zardini: "La lavagna" (8c) and "Attila" (8b+) at Lavagna del Col Drusciè (Lago Ghedina, Cortina d'Ampezzo, Dolomites). Put in other words, Luca "Canon" Zardini and the never-ending school of rock climbing. The report by Luca Zardini.
Silvio Reffo, the 9a climbing physiotherapist
20/01/2016 - Interviews
Silvio Reffo, the 9a climbing physiotherapist
Interview with Italian rock climber Silvio Reffo who at Misja Pec in Slovenia sent his 10th 9a sports climb.
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
15/01/2016 - Alpinism
Tom Ballard: climbing towards tomorrow's world in the Dolomites
British climber Tom Ballard discusses his recent climbs, which include the first ascent of Je Ne Sais Quoi D14+ in the Dolomites, Italy.
Here today gone tomorrow, new Val di Mello rock climb up Scoglio delle Metamorfosi
29/12/2015 - Climbing
Here today gone tomorrow, new Val di Mello rock climb up Scoglio delle Metamorfosi
In 2014 Pietro Biasini, Daniele Bianchi and Mirko Masè established the first seven pitches of Here today gone tomorrow (X-, 215m) on Scoglio delle Metamorfosi in Val di Mello, Italy. In November 2015 Bianchi and Masé completed the climb in memory of their friend Pietro Biasini, who died in Norway...
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
19/12/2015 - Climbing
Alex Luger unwraps The Gift on Drusenfluh in Rätikon
In August 2015 on the Drusenfluh the Rätikon massif in Austria Alexander Luger made the first ascent of The Gift (8c, 350m).
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
30/10/2015 - Climbing
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
Marzio Nardi reports about Rock Slave XP 2015, the climbing trip to Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa and the Lucane Dolomites in Basilicata, Souther Italy. A journey inspired by the famous book "Mezzogiorno di pietra" published in 1985 by Alessandro Gogna.
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
24/09/2015 - Alpinism
East is East, a Catinaccio triptych in the Dolomites. By Tom Ballard.
British climber Tom Ballard reports about the first ascents, and first free ascents, of three routes climbed on Catinaccio - Rosengarten in the Dolomites together with Stefania Pederiva (daughter of Val di Fassa mountain guide Bruno Pederiva): Baptism of Fire (535m VIII+ (VII obl.), Scarlet Fever (300m IX- (VII+ obl.)...
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
24/09/2015 - Climbing
Tsaranoro, two big new rock climbs in Madagascar by Sean Villanueva
In August 2015 in Madagascar's Tsaranoro massif Sean Villanueva made the first ascent of Fire in the Belly (8a+, 700m) on Tsaranoro Atsimo together with Siebe Vanhee. In September Villanueva teamed up with Rakotomalala Herynony Samuel to make the first ascent of the hitherto untouched Angavoa wall via the new...
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
14/09/2015 - Climbing
Big Bilibino rock climbs in Siberia
In July 2015 Hansjörg Auer, Jacopo Larcher, Eneko Pou, Iker Pou and Siebe Vanhee climbed 8 new routes up the granite big walls close to Bilibino in Russia.
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
13/09/2015 - Climbing
Snake Dike lights up Half Dome in Yosemite to raise awareness for safe climbing
One of the most famous moderate routes in Yosemite, Snake Dike on Half Dome, was lit up on 29 August 2015 to raise awareness for the American Safe Climbing Association (ASCA) and highlight safety issues concerning rebolting and regularly maintaining existing sport climbs.
Coffee Break - Chogolisa's roof
29/07/2015 - Alpinism
Coffee Break - Chogolisa's roof
Delving into shapes, the history and the perceived mountains. Daniela Zangrando in her Coffee Break interviews Maxime Guitton, in charge of "Soutien à la création" at the Centre national des arts plastiques (CNAP) in Paris.
Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle climb The Constant Gardner in Yosemite
09/07/2015 - Climbing
Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle climb The Constant Gardner in Yosemite
The first ascent video of The Constant Gardner in Yosemite valley, USA, established ground-up in September 2014 by Cheyne Lempe and Ethan Pringle.
Nifada, Angela Eiter and Bernie Ruech climb untouched rock in Greece
18/06/2015 - Climbing
Nifada, Angela Eiter and Bernie Ruech climb untouched rock in Greece
Austrian climber Angela Eiter reports about her recent trips to Greece where, close to Leonidio, she and her partner Bernie Ruech developed Nifada. The new crag currently hosts 14 routes up to 8c+.
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma climb new routes on Mt Kinabalu in Borneo
03/06/2015 - Climbing
Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma climb new routes on Mt Kinabalu in Borneo
The Japanese climbers Yuji Hirayama and Sachi Amma have spent three weeks climbing at Mt Kinabalu in Borneo, where they have established a flurry of new routes and where Amma made the first repeat of Tinipi 9a+.
Palermo and the miraculous climbing on Monte Gallo. By Eugenio Pinotti
27/05/2015 - Climbing
Palermo and the miraculous climbing on Monte Gallo. By Eugenio Pinotti
Eugenio Pinotti tells the intriguing story of a new route, or rather a route that could have already existed, on the north face of Mount Gallo: Nato due volte, climbed with Fabrice Calabrese and Mauro Florit in March 2015.

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