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XVII Mezzalama Trophy - 19 April 2009
16/04/2009 - Competitions
XVII Mezzalama Trophy - 19 April 2009
The 17th Mezzalama Trophy will take place on 19 April 2009. This classic ski mountaineering marathon takes place once every two years and dates back to 1933. As usual it starts at Breuil-Cervinia and finishes at Gressoney la Trinité via the Monte Rosa glacier and the summit of Monte Castore.
Winds of change for climbing on Czech sandstone
02/04/2009 - Climbing
Winds of change for climbing on Czech sandstone
The Czech Mountaineering Union has passed a bill, still to be accepted by the Ministry of Environment, approving the use of chalk on Czech sandstone.
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Paolo Rabbia, first winter ski traverse of the Alps
Interview with Paolo Rabbia who from 29/12/2008 to 28/02/2009 carried out the first ski mountaineering traverse of the Alps in winter without the help of mechanical transport.
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
16/03/2009 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
On Sunday 15/03 Nives Meroi and Romano Benet departed from Italy to attempt Kangchenjunga, their 12th 8000m peak. Located on the border between Nepal and India, this 8586m mountain is the third highest in the world.
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
12/03/2009 - Events
Piolet d'or 2009: the six candidates
The 6 nominees for the 17th Piolet d'Or, scheduled for 25 April 2009: Dave Turner (USA) for his solo ascent on the East Face of Cerro Escudo (Torres del Paine, Chile), Simon Anthamatten and Ueli Steck (Switzerland) for their new route up the N Face of Tengkampoche (Nepal), Stéphane Benoist...
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
11/02/2009 - Alpinism
First winter ascent of Makalu: interview with Simone Moro and Denis Urubko
Interview with Simone Moro from Italy and Denis Urubko from Kazakhstan after the first winter ascent of Makalu.
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
06/02/2009 - Alpinism
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
Hervé Barmasse, Giovanni Ongaro and Daniele Bernasconi have completed the traverse of the Hielo Continetal Sud and safely reached the Falcon Ford. Their idea of climbing the North Pillar of Cerro Riso Patron faltered as the mountain proved inaccessible, so much so that reaching the Fjord proved an undertaking in...
Ines Papert and Cory Richards add new route to Kwangde Shar, Nepal
19/01/2009 - Alpinism
Ines Papert and Cory Richards add new route to Kwangde Shar, Nepal
Ines Papert debuts in the Himalaya with Cory Richards and forges 'Cobra Norte' (WI5, M8, TD & R) up the North Face of Kwangde Shar 6093m, Nepal, Himalaya.
Bishop bouldering: Kevin Jorgeson frees Ambrosia at the Buttermilks
09/01/2009 - Climbing
Bishop bouldering: Kevin Jorgeson frees Ambrosia at the Buttermilks
Kevin Jorgeson from America has made the first ascent of the super highball 'Ambrosia' at the Buttermilks, Bishop and the first repeat of Luminance V11.
First winter ascents on Ben Nevis and Lake District
08/12/2008 - Alpinism
First winter ascents on Ben Nevis and Lake District
Perfect winter conditions in Great Britain have resulted in a series of first ascents on Ben Nevis in Scotland and in the Lake District in England.
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
07/12/2008 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre Ragni route for Bernasconi and Salini
On 2 December the Italians Matteo Bernasconi and Fabio Salini carried out a fast ascent of the Via dei Ragni on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Patagonia. This route was also climbed the previous day by Rolando Garibotti and Co.
Help Jim Bridwell
03/12/2008 - Climbing
Help Jim Bridwell
A group of Italian friends and mountain guides has created a fund to help Jim Bridwell, the American climber and mountaineer, overcome a difficult moment.

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