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Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
02/01/2013 - Alpinism
Alpinism and climbing in 2012 - part 1
Part one of what happend, in alpinism and in climbing, in 2012. A summary, for obvious reason incomplete, of the climbs, the most beautiful achievements and also the most painful moments in 2012. In the hope that this résumé serves...
Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
24/07/2012 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
On 17 and 18 July Italian alpinist and mountain guide Rossano Libera made the first solo ascent and second repeat of the direttissima Memento Mori route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. A route and ascent which many define...
Presolana, first winter ascents of Via Paco and Via Bosio
09/04/2012 - Alpinism
Presolana, first winter ascents of Via Paco and Via Bosio
On 16/03/2012 Daniele Natali and Tito Arosio made the first winter ascent of Via Paco (7b (6c+ obligatory), 400m), while a day later Maurizio Panseri and Fulvio Zanetti made the first winter ascent of Via Bosio (7a+ (6°+ obligatory) 430m)...
Presolana via Direttissima, first winter ascent by Panseri, Natali and Ceribelli
15/03/2012 - Alpinism
Presolana via direttissima, first winter ascent by Panseri, Natali and Ceribelli
On 2-3 March 2012 Maurizio Panseri, Daniele Natali and Alessandro Ceribelli carried out the first winter ascent of via direttissima up the North Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Maurizio Panseri.
Marco Anghileri: first solo ascent of L'Ultimo Zar on Pale di San Lucano
21/10/2011 - Alpinism
Marco Anghileri: first solo ascent of L'Ultimo Zar on Pale di San Lucano
On 13 and 14 ocotber 2011 Marco Anghileri carried out the first solo ascent of "L'Ultimo Zar" (500m, 7+ A3). This is the 5th solo climb this season, all carried out in the Lecco Grigna area.
Matterhorn, via Bonatti in 7 hours 14 minutes by Aufdenblatten and Lerjen-Demjen
28/09/2011 - Alpinism
Matterhorn, via Bonatti in 7 hours 14 minutes by Aufdenblatten and Lerjen-Demjen
On 27/09/2011 the Swiss alpinists Patrick Aufdenblatten and Michael Lerjen-Demjen climbed the North Face of the Matterhorn via the Bonatti Diretissima (ED+ 1200m) in 7 hours 14 minutes.
Bellavista in the Dolomites for Luka Krajnc
13/09/2011 - Alpinism
Bellavista in the Dolomites for Luka Krajnc
Slovenian climber Luka Krajnc has carried out the fourth complete free ascent of Bellavista on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites, first ascended by Alexander Huber solo during winter 1999 with difficulties up to A4 and then freed by German at...
Hervé Barmasse, the new Matterhorn route and the exploration of the Alps
22/04/2011 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, the new Matterhorn route and the exploration of the Alps
On 9 April, after 4 days on the wall and three bivvies, Hervé Barmasse reached the summit of Picco Muzio via a new 700m route up the great pillar located on the South Face. This is the first stage in...
Eiger Direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
26/10/2010 - Alpinism
Eiger direttissima free, Jasper and Schaeli interview after the John Harlin route
From 20 - 23 September 2010 Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland carried out the first free ascent of the John Harlin direttissima up the North Face of the Eiger. The duo exited via the Heckmair route...
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
04/06/2010 - Alpinism
Plein Sud: new route up the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses
On 22 May 2010 Sergio De Leo, Michel Coranotte, Marcello Sanguineti and Marco Appino carried out the first ascent of "Plein Sud" (900m, VI, WI4+/5R, M6+), a new route up the incredible wild South Face of the Grandes Jorasses (Mont...
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
30/03/2010 - Alpinism
Matterhorn South Face, new route by Marco and Hervé Barmasse
On 13 March 2010 Marco and Hervé Barmasse established a new route up the South Face of the Matterhorn. Their 1220m line solves one of the "problems" up the massive "Becca" face, attempted by numerous climbers in the past. The...
Ignazio Piussi
20/06/2008 - Alpinism
Ignazio Piussi
On 11 June Iganzio Piuzzi died in Gemona aged 73. He was one of the greatest mountaineers in the period 1950 – 1970. His climbing companion Roberto Sorgato remembers him in the following interview.
Croda di Pomagagnon collapse in the Dolomites
29/06/2005 - Climbing
Croda di Pomagagnon collapse in the Dolomites
A large quantity of rock has broken free from the central wall of Monte Pomagagnon, creating an enormous cloud of dust.
K2: first repeat of
09/09/2004 - Alpinism
K2: first repeat of "Magic line" dedicated to Manel De La Matta
the Catalan expedition and the first repeat of the magic line on K2, Himalaya.
48th International Filmfestival, Trento, Italy - the awards
06/05/2000 - Events
48th International Filmfestival, Trento, Italy - the awards
"Himalaya" awarded Grand Prize by International Jury
13/04/2000 - Events
"The Call of the Mountains!" Alpinism exhibition in Austria
Salzburg hosts a year-long exhibition to celebrate the mountain and all its facets.

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