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'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
01/04/2025 - Alpinism
'Luce e Tenebre' on Punta Pioda, the report by Silvan Schüpbach
The report by Silvan Schüpbach about the first ascent of 'Luce e Tenebre' on the north face of Punta Pioda, also known as Pioda di Sciora in Switzerland, established from 6 - 9 March 2025 together with fellow Swiss alpinists Filippo Sala and Roger Schäli.
'Testa o Croce' added to Taghia Gorge, Morocco
31/03/2025 - Climbing
'Testa o Croce' added to Taghia Gorge, Morocco
In April 2024 on Mt. Taoujdad in the Taghia Gorge in Morocco Luca Caldini and Lorenzo Gadda made the first ascent of 'Testa o Croce'.
Katie McKinstry Stylos makes first female ascent of 'Parallel World' in Dolomites Yaniro style
29/03/2025 - Alpinism
Katie McKinstry Stylos makes first female ascent of 'Parallel World' in Dolomites Yaniro style
Interview with American climber Katie McKinstry Stylos who on 18 March 2025 made the first female ascent of 'Parallel World' in the Tomorrow's World cave on Marmolada, Dolomites, Italy. Stylos climbed the 60m horizontal roof Yaniro style.
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
27/03/2025 - Alpinism
Hard winter ascent on Cima Busazza (Italy) by Emanuele Andreozzi, Stefano Falezza
On 7 March 2025, Emanuele Andreozzi and Stefano Falezza made what is likely to be the first winter ascent of 'Via Dell’Eva-Taddei' on the north face of Cima Busazza (Presanella, Italy). The summer climb, first ascended in 1969 and originally graded V+, was reinterpreted by Andreozzi and Falezza in a...
All-woman team establishes 'Apollo 13' in Rio Turbio IV valley (Patagonia)
25/03/2025 - Alpinism
All-woman team establishes 'Apollo 13' in Rio Turbio IV valley (Patagonia)
An all-woman team comprised of Julia Cassou, Rocío Rodríguez Guiñazú, Fay Manners, Caroline North and Belén Prados spent five weeks in Northern Patagonia's Río Turbio IV valley, where they made the first ascent of 'Apollo 13' on the previously unclimbed El Cohete peak. Manners reports.
35th Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest winners revealed
15/03/2025 - Book-press
35th Memorial María Luisa Photo Contest winners revealed
The Grand Prize of the 35rd edition of the Maria Luisa Memorial Photo contest was awarded to Rajarshi Banerji for his photo entitled 'Black panther under the stars'. The competition attracted 18,684 photographs and 199 films entries by 1,590 registered photographers from 95 countries.
'Bianco Invisibile' added to Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) by François Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni
11/03/2025 - Alpinism
'Bianco Invisibile' added to Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) by François Cazzanelli, Giuseppe Vidoni
Interview with François Cazzanelli who on 7 March 2025 teamed up with Giuseppe Vidoni to make the first ascent of 'Bianco Invisibile' (800m, 6c, M7, AI5) on the east face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (4112m) in the Mont Blanc massif. The route ends at the col at 3900m.
'Polvere di Stelle' added to Sarca Valley, Italy
07/03/2025 - Climbing
'Polvere di Stelle' added to Sarca Valley, Italy
The report by Andrea Schiavo about the first ascent of 'Polvere di Stelle', a 'fun new multi-pitch sport climb established ground-up' with Cesare Lotti on the compact grey slabs of Torre Grigia of Monte Brento in the Sarca valley, Arco, Italy.
Joda Dolmans completes wild Tindenåla Winter Solo
06/03/2025 - Alpinism
Joda Dolmans completes wild Tindenåla Winter Solo
Swedish alpinist Joda Dolmans reports about his recent Tindenåla winter solo in Norway. The 24-year-old carried out a 'wild journey, in the heart of winter' climbing six iconic mountains in Nordland from December 2024 to February 2025: Stetind, Husbyviktind, Preikstoltind, Sjunkhatten, Strandåtind and Store Åselitind.
Benjamin Védrines completes Petit Dru winter solo climb via BASE
24/02/2025 - Alpinism
Benjamin Védrines completes Petit Dru winter solo climb via BASE
From 17 to 21 February 2025, French climber Benjamin Védrines completed a solo winter ascent of the BASE route on the West Face of the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif.
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
18/02/2025 - Alpinism
‘Kairos’ multipitch added to Taghia (Morocco) by Davide Gaeta, Gabriele Gorobey, Guido De Sabbata
Gabriele Gorobey reports about the March 2023 first ascent, with Davide Gaeta and Guido De Sabbata, of Kairos (8a+, 230m), a new multi-pitch route on Paroi de la Cascade in Taghia, Morocco.
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
14/02/2025 - Alpinism
Rysy 'Direttissima' in High Tatras climbed free by Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel, Tomek Klimcza
From 8-10 February 2025, the team of Polish climbers consisting of Michał Czech, Maciek Kimel and Tomek Klimczak made the first free ascent of the classic 'Direttissima' on the east face of Rysy in the High Tatras, Slovakia. The 13-pitch, 450m mixed climb is now graded VII M8+ and was...
Big new mixed climb 'Norah Padnom' on Pic Sans Nom (Mont Blanc)
12/02/2025 - Alpinism
Big new mixed climb 'Norah Padnom' on Pic Sans Nom (Mont Blanc)
From 4 to 6 February 2025, French alpinists Manu Brechignac, Raphaël Georges and Jérôme Sullivan established 'Norah Padnom' on Pic Sans Nom, located to the left of the Drus in the Mont Blanc massif.
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
07/02/2025 - Climbing
Seb Berthe repeats legendary 'Dawn Wall' on El Capitan
Belgian climber Sébastien Berthe has made the fourth free ascent of the Dawn Wall on El Capitan in Yosemite, USA. First climbed by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson in 2015, it was repeated by Adam Ondra in 2016 and is known as the most difficult big wall climb in the...
Melloblocco 2025, registration now open for the legendary boulder meeting in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello
06/02/2025 - Events
Melloblocco 2025, registration now open for the legendary boulder meeting in Italy's Val Masino - Val di Mello
Registrations are now open for Melloblocco 2025, the biggest bouldering and climbing meeting in the world which this year is scheduled to take place in Val di Mello - Val Masino from May 7th to 10th.
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
31/01/2025 - Alpinism
Fox Jaw Cirque in Greenland, Italians traverse Baby Molar, Molar & Incisor, climb Cavity Ridge
Last August, the Italians Daniele Bonzi, Francesco Fumagalli and Thomas Triboli travelled to the Fox Jaw Cirque in East Greenland, where they completed the first traverse of the first three towers: Baby Molar, Molar, and Incisor. Named 'Trident VI Orobica', the route involves 1,000 metres of climbing over 21 pitches,...

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