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Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
08/07/2022 - Alpinism
Pumari Chhish East first ascent in Pakistan by Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan
Climbing alpine style from 25 - 29 June 2022 French alpinists Christophe Ogier, Victor Saucede, Jérôme Sullivan completed the first ascent of Pumari Chhish East (6850m) in Pakistan. 'The Crystal Ship' (M7, 6b, A2, 1600m) takes a technical, direct route up the mountain’s south face. Sullivan reports.
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
24/06/2022 - Alpinism
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
18/05/2022 - Alpinism
Jugal Spire in Nepal climbed by Tim Miller, Paul Ramsden
Interview with British mountaineer Paul Ramsden who with Tim Miller completed an alpine style first ascent of The Phantom Line (1200m, ED+) up the north face of a previously unclimbed and unnamed 6563m peak now called Jugal Spire in the Jugal Himal region of Nepal
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
05/04/2022 - Alpinism
Golgotha East Face climbed in Alaska's Revelation Mountains by Clint Helander, Andres Marin
From 23-25 March 2022 Clint Helander and Andres Marin completed the first ascent of 'The Shaft of the Abyss' (VI AI5R M5 90° Snow A0 ca. 4,000’), a huge new mixed climb up the east face of awe-inspiring Mt. Golgotha in the Revelation Mountains of Alaska.
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
18/03/2022 - Alpinism
Grupo La Paz in Patagonian Chile traversed by Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti, Hernán Rodriguez
From 21 to 23 February Antar Machado, Sebastian Pelletti and Hernán Rodriguez completed the skyline traverse of Grupo La Paz in the Cordillera Riesco in Patagonia, Chile. The trio climbed ‘Ayayema Wesqar’ alpine style from west to east past difficulties up to 5.11- and bivied two nights in between the...
New climb on Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia by Esteban Degregori, Horacio Gratton, Pedro Odell
15/02/2022 - Alpinism
New climb on Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia by Esteban Degregori, Horacio Gratton, Pedro Odell
Interview with Horacio Gratton who from 26 - 27 January 2022 with fellow Argentine mountaineers Esteban Degregori and Pedro Odell made the first ascent of El Zorro y la Rosa (6c+ C1 500m) on the SE face of Aguja Saint-Exupéry in Patagonia. The new route leads to the south summit...
Grandes Jorasses Directe de l'Amitié repeated by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
07/02/2022 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses Directe de l'Amitié repeated by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
From 24 to 26 January 2022 French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines repeated Directe de l'Amitié on the north face of the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif.
Eiger Harlin Direttissima climbed in winter by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
27/01/2022 - Alpinism
Eiger Harlin Direttissima climbed in winter by Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel, Benjamin Védrines
From 12 to 16 January 2022 the French mountaineers Leo Billon, Sébastien Ratel and Benjamin Védrines climbed the John Harlin Direttissima on the north face of the Eiger in alpine style and in winter.
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler call off Nanga Parbat winter climb
25/01/2022 - Alpinism
Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler call off Nanga Parbat winter climb
Due to the bad weather conditions the Italian mountaineer Hervé Barmasse and his German climbing partner David Göttler have called off their expedition which aimed to climb Nanga Parbat in winter.
Peak Kosmos in Kyrgyzstan climbed by Alexander Gukov, Victor Koval
10/11/2021 - Alpinism
Peak Kosmos in Kyrgyzstan climbed by Alexander Gukov, Victor Koval
Ace Russian mountaineers Alexander Gukov and Victor Koval have completed an impressive first ascent in the Kokshaal-Too Ridge mountain range, climbing a direct line up the center of the north face of Peak Kosmos in pure alpine style over a period of 7 days.
Tsoboje Northwest Face in Nepal climbed by Nejc Marčič, Luka Stražar
04/11/2021 - Alpinism
Tsoboje Northwest Face in Nepal climbed by Nejc Marčič, Luka Stražar
Climbing alpine style from 28 - 30 October 2021, Slovenian alpinists Nejc Marčič and Luka Stražar established a new route up the NW Face of Tsoboje (Chobutse) above the Rolwaling Valley in Nepal.
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
19/10/2021 - Alpinism
Chamlang North Face Direttissima by Charles Dubouloz, Benjamin Védrines
French mountaineers Charles Dubouloz and Benjamin Védrines have climbed a remarkable new route up the virgin North Face of Chamlang (7319m) in Nepal. 'À l'ombre du mensonge' was ascended alpine style over 4 days and breaches difficulties up WI 5+, M5+, 90°, ED.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
21/09/2021 - Alpinism
More new climbs in Greenland by Favresse, Villanueva, Wertz, Jaruta
The second report by Nicolas Favresse who in the Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord in Greenland has established another 5 new big walls with Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, Jean-Louis Wertz and Aleksej Jaruta.
Rick Allen perishes on K2
27/07/2021 - Alpinism
Rick Allen perishes on K2
68-year-old Scottish mountaineer Rick Allen has lost his life while attempting to establish a new route on K2. In 2012, together with Sandy Allan, he completed the historic first traverse of the interminable Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat.
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
26/07/2021 - Alpinism
French reap Harvest Moon on Dansam West in Kondus Valley, Pakistan
Towards the end of June French mountain guides Martin Elias, Victor Saucède, Jeremy Stagnetto and Jérôme Sullivan made the first ascent of Harvest Moon, a new route on Dansam West (6600m) above the Kondus Valley in the Karakorum, Pakistan. Climbed alpine style, the 1600m route is graded M6 WI6. Jérôme...