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World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
09/11/2016 - Competitions
World Youth Climbing Championships: Shiraishi, Avezou, Garnbret, Bendazzoli, Hayes & Lorenzi win in China
The World Youth Championships are currently being held at Guangzhou in China. The Lead discipline was won by Ashima Shiraishi and Sam Avezou (Youth B), Janja Garnbret and Giorgio Bendazzoli (Youth A) and Margo Hayes and Simon Lorenzi (Juniors)
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
08/11/2016 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo, on Cima Grande Simon Gietl and Vittorio Messini establish Das Erbe der Väter
Interview with South Tyrol’s Simon Gietl who, together with, Vittorio Messini made the first ascent of ‘Das Erbe der Väter’ up the North Face of Cima Grande di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. After sharing a start with Via Comici, the new route runs to the right, breaches difficulties up to...
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
07/11/2016 - Climbing
Ray Jardine's Friends, a teacup and a blue bag
Maurizio Oviglia recalls the invention of the Friend, the revolutionary camming device invented in the 1970s by the America’s Ray Jardine. A fun story that retraces an important moment in the history of rock climbing.
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
01/11/2016 - Alpinism
Mt. Hutsa & Peak 5912m, new international climbs in Genyen massif, Sichuan
New Zealand mountaineer Robert Partridge reports about the international expedition comprised of Peter Linney (EIRE), Luca Vallata & Tito Arosio (IT), James Monypenny, Tom Nichols & Heather Swift (UK) that established various new routes in the Genyen massif of China's Sichuan province including the first ascents of Mt. Hutsa (5863m)...
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
31/10/2016 - Climbing
Dai Koyamada, Alexander Megos and Daniel Jung find Frankenjura friction
While Alexander Megos has repeated Becoming, a 9a+ sports climb in Germany’s Frankenjura, Daniel Jung and Dai Koyamada have repeated Corona 9a+ nearby.
Valery Rozov BASE jumps from 7700m off Cho Oyu
25/10/2016 - Alpinism
Valery Rozov BASE jumps from 7700m off Cho Oyu
On 5 October 2016 Russia’s Valery Rozov leapt from a record-breaking altitude of 7700m off Cho Oyu, the sixth highest mountain in the world.
Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography
22/10/2016 - Book-press
Red Bull Illume 2016 and the beauty of photography
German photographer Lorenz Holder has won one of the most prestigious photographic competitions in the world for “action & adventure”, namely the Red Bull Illume 2016. All the winning photos.
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes
20/10/2016 - Alpinism
Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl free Sueños de Invierno on Naranjo de Bulnes
German climbers Alexander Huber and Fabian Buhl have made the first free ascent of 'Sueños de Invierno' (540m, 8a), the rock climb first ascended in 1983 by José Luis García Gallego and Miguel Ángel Díez Vives up Naranjo de Bulnes / Picu Urriellu (2518m) in Spain.
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
19/10/2016 - Environment
The moon above Vasilika, beyond the extreme
Nathalie Bini shares her experience in a refugee camp at Vasilika (Thessaloniki, Greece) and appeals to everyone, climber and non climbers, to help make a little magic.
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
13/10/2016 - Climbing
Adam Ondra 9b first ascent and 8c+ onsight in Slovakia
Interview with Czech climber Adam Ondra who on 05/10/2016 at Alternativna stena in Slovakia made the first ascent of 'Robin Úd', a 9b sports climb, before on sighting the 8c+ 'C'est la vie'.
High pressure over Mont Blanc
12/10/2016 - Alpinism
High pressure over Mont Blanc
The high-pressure system, an unbridled love for the mountains, a fortnight, one tent and the thirst for a simple and wandering form of alpinism, with all Mont Blanc's summits and thousands of wonders in this alpine playground. This is the story of a mountaineering trip carried out by Giovanni Zaccaria...
Wogü - Edu Marin climbing in Rätikon, Switzerland
09/10/2016 - Climbing
Wogü - Edu Marin climbing in Rätikon, Switzerland
The video of Spanish sports climber Edu Marin making the first repeat of Wogü (8c, 250m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon, freed in 2008 by Adam Ondra.
Alexander Huber rides Onda Azzurra up Monte Donneneittu in Sardinia
07/10/2016 - Climbing
Alexander Huber rides Onda Azzurra up Monte Donneneittu in Sardinia
In January 2016 Alexander Huber made the first ascent, alone, of Onda Azzurra up Monte Donneneittu at Codula di Luna in Sardinia. 240m high and with difficulties up to 8a+, this multi-pitch sports climb was freed by Huber together with Michael Althammer in April 2016.
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
06/10/2016 - Alpinism
Nina Caprez climbs Mont Blanc Divine Providence
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her July 2016 ascent, carried out with Merlin Benoit, of 'Divine Providence' (ED+, 7b+, 900m) up Grand Pilier d’Angle, Mont Blanc. This is likely to be the first free female ascent of this route established from 5 -8 July 1984 by Patrick Gabarrou and...
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
06/10/2016 - Climbing
Rätikon / New Prix Garantie climbed by Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel
On the 4th Kirchlispitze (2494m) in Switzerland’s Rätikon massif Marcel Dettling and Michael Bechtel have made the first ascent of Prix Garantie (7c, 220m).
Dún Briste sea stack, second ascent by Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska
05/10/2016 - Climbing
Dún Briste sea stack, second ascent by Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska
At the end of August 2016 Iain Miller and Paulina Kaniszewska made what is believed to be only the second ascent of the iconic Dún Briste sea stack at Downpatrick Head, Ireland.

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