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Jacopo Larcher repeats Lapoterapia at Osso
02/12/2015 - Climbing
Jacopo Larcher repeats Lapoterapia at Osso
Italy’s Jacopo Larcher has repeated Lapoterapia, the 8c sports climb located at beautiful Osso, freed by Alessandro Manini in 2012 and repeated only by Gabriele Moroni. The report and photos by Riky Felderer.
Sonnie Trotter frees Blue Jeans Direct on Mount Yamnuska in Canada
01/12/2015 - Climbing
Sonnie Trotter frees Blue Jeans Direct on Mount Yamnuska in Canada
At the end of October Canadian rock climber Sonnie Trotter made the first free ascent of Blue Jeans Direct, a 8 pitch 5.14a on Mount Yamnuska in Canada.
Alexander Megos 9a+ redpoint and 8c+ onsight at Margalef
29/11/2015 - Climbing
Alexander Megos 9a+ redpoint and 8c+ onsight at Margalef
At Margalef in Spain Alexander Megos has made a fast redpoint of Demencia Senil 9a+ and onsighted Victimes del Passat 8c+.
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
25/11/2015 - Climbing
UIAA recommends titanium bolts only for marine crags
Maurizio Oviglia discusses the new document produced by the UIAA (the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation) which outlines management strategies for individual climbers, bolters and manufacturers for anchor safety and bolting of sport climbs at seaside crags.
Yosemite valley and climbing in Never Never Land. By Jacopo Larcher
25/11/2015 - Climbing
Yosemite valley and climbing in Never Never Land. By Jacopo Larcher
Jacopo Larcher talks about his first climbing trip to Yosemite Valley, USA with Barbara Zangerl, during which they repeated El Nino (5.13c, 800m) on El Capitan and other granite big wall climbs.
Jakob Schubert claims Zillertal's first 9a
21/11/2015 - Climbing
Jakob Schubert claims Zillertal's first 9a
On 17/11/2015 Jakob Schubert freed Companion of Change, the first 9a in the Zillertal, Austria.
Gabriele Moroni frees Sid Lives 9a at Nago (Arco)
19/11/2015 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni frees Sid Lives 9a at Nago (Arco)
On 12/11/2015 at Nago close to Arco (Garda Trentino, Italy) Gabriele Moroni has made the first ascent of Sid Lives, a new 9a sports climb.
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
17/11/2015 - Alpinism
Marmolada Bruderliebe first repeat by Alessandro Rudatis
On 12 and 13 August 2015 Alessandro Rudatis and Massimo Torricelli made the second ascent of the beautiful and difficult Bruderliebe (800m, 19 pitches, max 8b/8b+) the difficult multi-pitch climb established and freed, in 2011, by Hansjörg Auer and his brother Vitus on the South Face of Marmolada (Dolomites).
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
06/11/2015 - Climbing
Spiluck - Spelonca, the new climbing area at Brixen
The series 'Crags for each season' published together with Vertical-Life.info continues. The seventh crag is the new sport climbing and bouldering area Spiluck - Spelonca close to Vahrn / Brixen in Italy's South Tyrol.
Adam Ondra adds a new 9b to Mollans in France
05/11/2015 - Climbing
Adam Ondra adds a new 9b to Mollans in France
At Mollans in France Adam Ondra has made the first ascent of C.R.S., a new sports climb graded 9b. This is the 14th 9b or harder the Czech climber has redpointed.
From Noia to Lapsus at Andonno in Italy. By Severino Scassa
04/11/2015 - Climbing
From Noia to Lapsus at Andonno in Italy. By Severino Scassa
Severino Seve Scassa, who climbed Italy’s first 8c+ in 1993 with Noia at Andonno, shares his views about Lapsus, the new route freed at the same crag by Stefano Ghisolfi graded 9b.
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
30/10/2015 - Climbing
Basilicata: searching for climbing's Never Never land. By Marzio Nardi
Marzio Nardi reports about Rock Slave XP 2015, the climbing trip to Castelmezzano and Pietrapertosa and the Lucane Dolomites in Basilicata, Souther Italy. A journey inspired by the famous book "Mezzogiorno di pietra" published in 1985 by Alessandro Gogna.
Angela Eiter climbing at Kyparissi in Greece
29/10/2015 - Climbing
Angela Eiter climbing at Kyparissi in Greece
The video of Austrian Angela Eiter and the endless climbing potential at Kyparissi in Greece.
Sachi Amma climbs 10 x 9a this year
28/10/2015 - Climbing
Sachi Amma climbs 10 x 9a this year
Japanese climber Sachi Amma has completed his aim of redpointing 10 sport climbs graded 9a or harder in 2015.
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
26/10/2015 - Alpinism
Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first free ascent of Voodoo-Zauber (IX-, 180m) on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc (2718m) in the Dolomites.
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
23/10/2015 - Alpinism
Dolomitspit, new Dolomites rock climb up Sas Ciampac
On 20/09/2015 Simon Kehrer and Manuel Baumgartner completed Dolomitspit (530m, VII, VI obl.) a new rock climb up the South Face of Sas Ciampac (2672m), Val Gardena, Dolomites. The route was started initially in 2007 (with Karl Unterkircher) and was completed in 2015 after three days of effort that included...

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