Voodoo-Zauber, new rock climb up Dolomites Heiligkreuzkofel by Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher
Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first free ascent of Voodoo-Zauber (IX-, 180m) on Heiligkreuzkofel / Sass de la Crusc (2718m) in the Dolomites.
Copia link
1 / 6
During the first ascent of Voodoo-Zauber, (IX-, 180m, Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher) Sass de la Crusc, Dolomites
Christoph Vonmetz
Over a three day period in September 2014 the South Tyrolean mountaineers Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher forged a new rock climb up Heiligkreuzkofel, also referred to as Sass de la Crusc, high above Val Badia in the Italian Dolomites. The route, called Voodoo-Zauber, climbs six independent pitches up the righthand side of the face, to the right of the Central Pillar put up in 1970 by Hans Frisch and P. Corradini, and to the left of Ihr Affen, established in 1994 by Christoph Hainz and Kurt Astner.
Gietl and Oberbacher climbed the route ground-up, without fixed ropes or bolts, and returned on 7 August 2015 for the first free ascent. "Initially I thought the route would be much easier" Gietl told planetmountain.com "in the end though it turned out to be harder than expected, with difficulties up to IX-". It’s worth noting that some Friends on the crux pitch had previously been left in-situ for the redpoint ascent.
Voodoo-Zauber is Gietl’s second new climb on Heiligkreuzkofel after his 2013 creation Vergissmeinnicht. Last year on the same peak Gietl teamed up with Adam Holzknecht to carry out the first winter ascent of Wüstenblume.
TOPO: Voodoo-Zauber, Heiligkreuzkofel, Dolomites
See all photos
Note:
| Expo.Planetmountain | |
 |
Salewa |
| www | |
 |
FB Simon Gietl |
|
www.simongietl.it |
Latest news
Expo / News
Expo / Products
Ocun Diamond S climbing shoes designed for maximum performance, comfort, and precision
A versatile high performance three season layering piece perfect for the summer months.
Hardshell jacket for technical mountaineering and climbing.
Scott skis, light enough for ski touring, and shaped for freeride skiing.
Kunene Jacket Woman is an ultra light jacket that takes up a minimum of space.
Technical performance ice axes for classic mountaineering Petzl Summit Evo.