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Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
24/07/2012 - Alpinism
Pizzo Badile, first solo of Memento Mori by Rossano Libera
On 17 and 18 July Italian alpinist and mountain guide Rossano Libera made the first solo ascent and second repeat of the Direttissima Memento Mori route up the NE Face of Pizzo Badile. A route and ascent which many define as the "most hair-raising" on the entire face.
Revelation mountains, new Slovenian first ascents in Alaska
19/07/2012 - Alpinism
Revelation mountains, new Slovenian first ascents in Alaska
In spring 2012 a Slovenian expedition to the Revelation Mountain range in Alaska resulted in a flurry of first ascents up virgin peaks. The trip report by expedition leader Anze Cokl.
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
17/07/2012 - Alpinism
Mont Blanc and the avalanche Mont Maudit
With regards to last Thursday's tragedy which claimed the lives of 9 climbers on Mont Maudit, we have received the thoughts of Dr. Luigi Festi, director of the International Masters Course in Mountain Medicine at the University of Insubria and Medical Commission President of the Lombardy branch of the...
Mazeno Ridge: Nanga Parbat summit not yet reached
12/07/2012 - Alpinism
Mazeno Ridge: Nanga Parbat summit not yet reached
Contrary to Cathy O'Dowd's Twitter message last night, the South African alpinist has now published new messaged in which she makes clear that the summit has not yet been reached,. Her climbing partners Sandy Allan, Rick Allen and the Sherpa Rangduk and Zarok are currently on a summit push.
Riegler brothers return to Darwo Chhok in Karakorum
11/07/2012 - Alpinism
Riegler brothers return to Darwo Chhok in Karakorum
Four years after their first attempt, Martin and Florian Riegler now return to the Karakorum, Pakistan, together with Austrians Monika Mehlmauer and Christoph Mohl to attempt the virgin Darwo Chhok Peak (5850m).
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Ukranian Great Trango Tower expedition
11/07/2012 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award won by Ukranian Great Trango Tower expedition
On Friday 6 July at Selva di Val Gardena (Italy) Marina Kopteva and Anna Yasinskaya from the Ukraine and Galina Chibitok from Russia received the Karl Unterkircher Award 2012 for their new route established in 38 days up the NW Face of Great Trango Tower (Pakistan).
James McHaffie conquers the Meltdown in Wales' Dinorwig slate quarries
10/07/2012 - Climbing
James McHaffie conquers the Meltdown in Wales' Dinorwig slate quarries
Big news comes from the fresh Dinorwig slate quarries in Wales where British climber James McHaffie has freed an old project which over the years had come to be known as The Meltdown project.
Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge, Allan, Allen and O’Dowd on the ridge
09/07/2012 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat Mazeno Ridge, Allan, Allen and O’Dowd on the ridge
The expedition of Sandy Allan, Rick Allen and Cathy O’Dowd to attempt the unclimbed Mazeno Ridge on Nanga Parbat, Pakistan.
Banff Mountain Photography Competition won by Neal Grundy. Jury Special Mention to Sandro Sedran
25/06/2012 - Events
Banff Mountain Photography Competition won by Neal Grundy. Jury Special Mention to Sandro Sedran
The Banff Mountain Photography Competition Grand Prize has been won by British photographer Neal Grundy. Italian photographer Sandro Sedran has received the Jury Special Mention.
Karl Unterkircher Award 2012, the nominations
08/06/2012 - Events
Karl Unterkircher Award 2012, the nominations
The second edition of the Karl Unterkircher Award will take place on 6 July 2012 at Selva di Val Gardena in the Italian Dolomites. The alpinists nominated for this award are Simone Moro, Denis Urubko and Cory Richards for the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II, Sean Villanueva, Ben Ditto,...
Emily Harrington summits Everest
06/06/2012 - Interviews
Emily Harrington summits Everest
Interview with the American climber Emily Harrington who reached the top of Everest on 25 May 2012
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
04/06/2012 - Alpinism
Ueli Steck and Everest: the ascent of a great alpinist
The report of Swiss alpinist Ueli Steck who on 18 May 2012 reached the summit of Everest along with Tenji Sherpa. We have published the account in its entirety as this provides insight into the crowds present during this pre-monsoon season, the job of the Sherpa and what it means...
Erri De Luca: Everest and the million dollar queue
29/05/2012 - Alpinism
Erri De Luca: Everest and the million dollar queue
We asked Italian writer and alpinist Erri De Luca to comment the photo of the queue on Everest which recently made its way across the internet... here's his vision.
Everest, the crowd and the race to nowhere
28/05/2012 - Alpinism
Everest, the crowd and the race to nowhere
The race towards the highest mountain on earth: a multitude of summits, long queues and, like every year, too many deaths. By Vinicio Stefanello.
Lagoni trad climbing by Michele Caminati
28/05/2012 - Alpinism
Lagoni trad climbing by Michele Caminati
Michele Caminati has made the first ascent of Il Dado è tratto!, a new trad climb graded E7 6c at Lagoni, Italy.
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
24/05/2012 - Interviews
Everest like an amusement park, Simone Moro abandons Everest and Lhotse attempt
Interview with Simone Moro who descended to Everst Base Camp today and abandoned his project of climbing Everest and then Lhotse without supplementary oxygen due to the massive crowds on the mountain (more than 200 are currently attempting to reach its summit) and the dangers association with this overcrowding.

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