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Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
29/05/2019 - Alpinism
Taghia Gorge: Moroccan Honey Moon climb established by Iker Pou, Neus Colom
Newlyweds Iker Pou and Neus Colom have made the first ascent of Honey Moon, a new multi-pitch rock climb in the Taghia Gorge in Morocco’s High Atlas massif.
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
24/05/2019 - Climbing
Caterina Bassi repeats Turkey crack, difficult offwidth trad climb at Cadarese
At Cadarese in Val d'Ossola, Italy, Caterina Bassi has repeated Turkey crack, the difficult offwidth trad crack climb first ascended by Sean Villanueva in 2010
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
24/05/2019 - Alpinism
Aiguilles Marbrées: new mixed climb Mtbness in Mont Blanc massif
Ezio Marlier reports about Mtbness, a new mixed climb up Aiguilles Marbrées (3535 m) in the Mont Blanc massif, first ascended with Luigi Santini, Jonathan Bracey and David Horwood.
Sense retorn, new climb up Mont-Rebei in Spain in memory of Hansjörg Auer
23/05/2019 - Alpinism
Sense retorn, new climb up Mont-Rebei in Spain in memory of Hansjörg Auer
On Pared de Catalunya at Mont Rebei in Spain Siebe Vanhee, Roger Molina and Jorge Solórzano have made the first ascent of Sense retorn - No turning back, a new rock climb dedicated to Hansjörg Auer.
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
21/05/2019 - Climbing
Nina Caprez rebolts and reclimbs Mingus, Verdon Gorge classic freed by Lynn Hill in 1994
Swiss climber Nina Caprez reports about her efforts to rebolt parts of Mingus, the 300m multi-pitch climb in the Verdon Gorge, France, first freed onsight by Lynn Hill in 1994 with difficulties up to 8a.
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
11/05/2019 - Climbing
Charlie Woodburn’s gritstone masterpiece Harder, Faster at Black Rocks
In November 2000 Charlie Woodburn made the first ascent of Harder, Faster at Black Rocks in England. Almost 20 years later, this remains one of the most dangerous and least repeated trad climbs in Great Britain.
Francesca Medici climbs her first 8c at Covolo, Italy
10/05/2019 - Climbing
Francesca Medici climbs her first 8c at Covolo, Italy
At the crag Covolo in Northern Italy, Francesca Medici has climbed Na Vida Nomada, her first 8c sports climb.
Ben Moon climbing at Buoux, 30 years after Agincourt
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Ben Moon climbing at Buoux, 30 years after Agincourt
British rock climber Ben Moon returns to Buoux 30 years after establishing Agincourt, the first 8c in France.
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
03/05/2019 - Climbing
Greenspit, the dream of a generation climbed in Valle Orco by Matteo della Bordella, Francesco Deiana
Matteo della Bordella and Francesco Deiana have both repeated Greenspit, one of the most famous crack climbs in the world in Valle Orco freed by Didier Berthod.
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
03/05/2019 - Alpinism
Piz Buin, Silvretta: Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti add new route to East Face
On 31/03/2019 Tito Arosio and Rosa Morotti made the first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Piz Buin (3312m) in the Silvretta group of the Rhaetian Alps. Arosio reports
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
02/05/2019 - Climbing
Caroline Sinno at Fontainebleau climbs her first 8B, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre
French climber Caroline Sinno has climbed her first 8B boulder problem, L'insoutenable Légèreté de l'Autre, at Fontainebleau
Piotr Schab fires Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana
02/05/2019 - Climbing
Piotr Schab fires Fight or Flight 9b at Oliana
Sport climbing in Spain: Piotr Schab from Poland has redpointed his first 9b, Fight or Flight established by Chris Sharma at Oliana in Spain.
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
30/04/2019 - Interviews
Jannu East Face, Dmitry Golovchenko and Sergey Nilov complete their Unfinished Sympathy
Interview with Dmitry Golovchenko after the 18-day alpine style first ascent of a new route up the East Face of Jannu in the Nepalese Himalaya with Sergey Nilov. The two Russian mountaineers have called their climb Unfinished Sympathy (ED, 2500m)
Hansjörg Auer: his climbing, his alpinism and the Marmolada Fish route
29/04/2019 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer: his climbing, his alpinism and the Marmolada Fish route
Video interview dating back to 2008 with Austrian mountaineer Hansjörg Auer, a year after his extraordinary free solo ascent of Via del Pesce, aka The Fish, up the South Face of Marmolada in the Dolomites carried out on 29 April 2007.
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
26/04/2019 - Alpinism
Brazilians blaze big new climb up Ulamertorsuaq in Greenland
Vinicius Todero reports about a 40-day climbing trip to southern Greenland with fellow Brazilian climber Marcos Costa in August 2018, during which the two repeated the famous Moby Dick on Ulamertorsuaq and, on the west face of the same mountain, established a 1000m new climb called Quajanaq. This shares sections...
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
19/04/2019 - Alpinism
David Lama, Hansjörg Auer, Jess Roskelley: farewell to three great mountaineers
Hansjörg Auer, David Lama, Jess Roskelley have perished while climbing Howse Peak, a difficult and remote mountain in the Canadian Rockies. Initially reported as missing, their deaths have been confirmed by the parents of David Lama and Jess Roskelley. The loss of this world class trio of alpinists is unfathomable.