1069 News found

French climber Laura Pineau has repeated 'Greenspit' in Valle dell'Orco, Italy. First ascended by Didier Berthod over 20 years ago, this coveted crack climb had been climbed only once before by a woman, by Barbara Zangerl in 2020. Pineau reports of the 'magical day', during which Giacomo Meliffi also sent...

A Scottish-Slovak team comprised of Callum Johnson, Tim Miller, Simon Smith and Miška Izakovičová recently returned from a highly successful climbing expedition to the Torsukattak Fjord in southern Greenland where they established multiple new climbs, including 'Mussels for Tea, Packrafts in the Sea' (E6 6b (7b), 1350m) and 'Texture like...

This summer Julia Cassou, Sean Warren, Pete Whittaker and Sean Villanueva O’Driscoll established a new climb up the centre of the Mirror Wall in Greenland. The 1000m big wall is graded 8b/R/A2+ and has been called 'Ryu-shin', in memory of their friend and climbing partner Keita Kurakami.

In summer 2024 Mariapia Ghedina and Diego Mabboni made the first ascent of 'Sto imparando a volare' on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif of the Dolomites, Italy.

The report by Leonardo Gheza who, earlier this summer with Luca Ducoli, established the multi-pitch 'Eclissi' (8a, 280m) on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites). This is Gheza's second new route here after 'Monologica', first ascended in 2023 with Angelo Contessi.

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.

Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.

In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers south of Tasiilaq on the island's southeast coast, was reached...

On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.

Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.

Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.

Slovenia's Jernej Kruder has repeated 'Greenspit', the difficult trad route established by Didier Berthod in Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).