1059 News found

Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.

Slovenia's Jernej Kruder has repeated 'Greenspit', the difficult trad route established by Didier Berthod in Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).

We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

The report by Daniele Bolognani who, with Silvia Bert made the ground-up first ascent of the multipitch rock climb 'Il sole e la luna' on Transatlantico in Valle del Sarca close to Arco, Italy.

From 14-17 April 2024 Britain's Tom Livingstone and Slovenia's Gašper Pintar made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'The Great Wall' on the South Face of Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.

British climber James Pearson has made the third ascent of Bernd Zangerl’s 8A+ highball boulder problem '29 Dots' in Val Noasca, Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

Jonathan Bonaventura reports about 'I Colombiani', the new multi-pitch climb established on Parete dei Rotoli on Monte Pellegrino (Palermo, Sicily) with Fabrizio Carmina and Martino Quintavalla.

On 10/03/2024 the 20-year-old Italian climber Iris Bielli repeated 'Prinzip Hoffnung', the famous trad climb on the Bürser Platte, Austria, freed in 2009 by Beat Kammerlander.

On 24 and 25 February 2024 Sebastian Pelletti and Hernan Rodriguez made the first ascent of 'Arma de doble filo' (5.11+, A1, 800m) on the East face of La Espada in the Torres del Paine massif in Patagonia.

Ignacio Mulero, Leon Teizan Riveros Molina and Nico Lewin have made the first ascent of 'Arigato Chalten' (7c, 450m) on the north face of El Mocho in the Cerro Torre massif in Patagonia.

On Wednesday 14 February Adam Ondra made the first repeat of 'Bon Voyage', the E12 at Annot in France established by James Pearson in February 2023. The Czech climber needed 3 days of effort and has confirmed the grade of E12 (9a).

On 25/01/2024 Nicola Castagna and Francesco Salvaterra made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'La Concha de la lora' on the north-east face of Crozzon di Val d'Agola (Brenta Dolomites). Salvaterra reports.