1098 News found

In summer 2024 Mariapia Ghedina and Diego Mabboni made the first ascent of 'Sto imparando a volare' on Punta Emma in the Rosengarten / Catinaccio massif of the Dolomites, Italy.

The report by Leonardo Gheza who, earlier this summer with Luca Ducoli, established the multi-pitch 'Eclissi' (8a, 280m) on Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites). This is Gheza's second new route here after 'Monologica', first ascended in 2023 with Angelo Contessi.

The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the 'big list' of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2023. The honoured ascents will receive the Piolets d'Or 2024 award during the celebration at San Martino di Castrozza (Italy) from 8 - 11 December 2024.

Papa Ionut and Alex Manoliu recently returned from the Ak-su valley in Kyrgystan, where they established Pamir Rainy Avenue (700m). The Romanian climbers report.

In Greenland Matteo Della Bordella, Symon Welfringer, Silvan Schüpbach and Alex Gammeter have succeeded in establishing a new route on the previously unclimbed northwest face of Drøneren: 1200 meters, 35 pitches, maximum difficulty 7b. The peak, located about 300 kilometers south of Tasiilaq on the island's southeast coast, was reached...

On 14 July 2024 Norwegian climber Tuva Stavø made the first female ascent of 'Arctandria' on Store Blåmann in Norway.

Climbing on 18-19 June 2024, Simon Richardson and Michael Rinn established a new route along the South Ridge of Punta Vardaz in the Mont Blanc massif. Rinn reports.

Maurizio Oviglia and Tatjana Göx have developed a spectacular new sports and trad area called Andromeda on the SW coast of Sardinia, on the Murru Biancu promontory between Portixeddu and Capo Pecora. Currently the crag has 11 routes up to 6c, and a fundraiser has been launched to complete the...

Maurizio Oviglia recalls the 1987 first ascent of the Faraglione di Buggerru sea stack, located on the west coast of Sardinia, Italy, and reports about his newest creation, 'Kind of Blue', first ascended with mountain guide Marco Bigatti. The chapter is taken from Oviglia's most recent book 'Climbing Postcards'.

Slovakian mountaineers Marek Radovský & Juraj Švingál have climbed various new rock climbs and mixed routes in the Cordillera Blanca area in Peru. Radovský reports.

Slovenia's Jernej Kruder has repeated 'Greenspit', the difficult trad route established by Didier Berthod in Valle dell'Orco, Italy.

British rock climb Jesse Dufton has become the first blind climber to lead a climb on Devil’s Tower, Wyoming. Supported by his wife Molly, the 1986 born paraclimber repeated 'El Matador' (5.10d, 150m). He led all the hard pitches, placed all his own protection and took several leader falls on route...

Leading German alpinist Martin Feistl lost his life on 18 May 2024 on Scharnitzspitze while soloing the 'Spitzenstätter' route (VII, 270m).

We have received and published the following open letter entitled 'Alpine sport climbs ground-up first ascents: an art of climbing sportsmanship at risk of trivialisation'. Promoted by Michel Piola, Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia, it has currently been signed by almost 100 climbers from all over the world.

The report by Daniele Bolognani who, with Silvia Bert made the ground-up first ascent of the multipitch rock climb 'Il sole e la luna' on Transatlantico in Valle del Sarca close to Arco, Italy.

From 14-17 April 2024 Britain's Tom Livingstone and Slovenia's Gašper Pintar made the first ascent of the mixed climb 'The Great Wall' on the South Face of Mt. Dickey (2909m) in the Ruth Gorge, Alaska.