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Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
06/12/2023 - Alpinism
Difficult new multi-pitch alpine sport route in Aladağlar, Turkey
Seb Bush from Italy, Simon Smith and Mike Turner from the UK have recently established 'Pretty reckless cats' a hard multi-pitch rock climb on the Northwest Face of Kizilin Basì in the Aladağlar National Park in southern Turkey. The 300m climb was established ground-up with the use of aid and...
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
02/11/2023 - Alpinism
New climb added to White Sapphine peak in Kishtwar Valley by Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko, Hayden Wyatt
From 5 - 7 October 2023 Christian Black, Vitaliy Musiyenko and Hayden Wyatt made the alpine style first ascent of 'Brilliant Blue' (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+) on White Sapphire peak (6040m) in the Kishtwar Valley in India. This is only the 3rd ascent of the mountain overall.
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
17/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big new route on Marmolada (Dolomites) established by Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti, Maurizio Giordani
On the south face of Marmolada (Dolomites) Iris Bielli, Matteo Della Bordella, Massimo Faletti and Maurizio Giordani have made the first ascent of Madre Roccia. The 900m climb breaches difficulties of 8b max and 7b mandatory. A total of 18 bolts were placed and while all pitches were freed individually,...
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
11/10/2023 - Alpinism
Big Breithorn mixed climb by François Cazzanelli, Leo Gheza
On Breithorn Centrale the Italian mountaineers François Cazzanelli and Leonardo Gheza have established the mixed climb 'Estate Indiana'. The 800m route breaches difficulties up to M8 AI5 R, summits Torre Maggiore and was climbed completely clean, i.e. using trad gear only.
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
09/10/2023 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley: new climbs in 'India's Yosemite' by Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D’Addario, Jérome Perruquet, Francesco Ratti
An Italian expedition comprised of mountain guides Alessandro Baù, Lorenzo D'Addario, Jérome Perruquet and Francesco Ratti has established two new climbs in the Miyar Valley, also known as the 'Yosemite of India'. 'Wind of Silence' (6b+, 500m) ascend the Neverseen Tower, while 'Super Thuraya' (6c, 500m) climbs the southwest pillar...
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
25/09/2023 - Alpinism
Vascello Fantasma added to remote Valle del Ferro (Val Masino), Italy
On 6 August 2023 on Pera del Ferro in Valle del Ferro (Val Masino, Italy) Matteo Bedendo and Lorenzo Casolini made the first ascent of 'Vascello Fantasma’, Ghost Ship. This route is 'Recommended for those who love climbing in remote and forgotten places in the high mountains, with a penchant...
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
22/09/2023 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2023 announces list of Significant Ascents
The organisers of the Piolet d’Or mountaineering award have published the complete list of most significant and innovative climbs carried out in 2022. The honoured ascents will receive the 2023 Piolets d'Or award during the celebration in Briançon, France, from 14 to 16 November
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva
14/09/2023 - Alpinism
Greenland 2023: ambitious Mirror Wall attempt abandoned by Cookson, Ditto, Favresse, Villanueva
Franco Cookson, Ben Ditto, Nico Favresse and Sean Villanueva have attempted to forge a new big wall climb on the Mirror Wall in Greenland. As usual the group sailed from Scotland to Greenland. Favresse reports
Louis Gundolf frees old David Lama project on Laserz in Lienz Dolomites
01/09/2023 - Climbing
Louis Gundolf frees old David Lama project on Laserz in Lienz Dolomites
Austrian climber Louis Gundolf has made the first free asent of an old David Lama project on the south face of Laserz in the Lienz Dolomites, Austria. The 250m multipitch is called Project Lama and graded 8c+.
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
31/08/2023 - Alpinism
Big new climb on Eiger North Face by Silvan Schüpbach, Peter von Känel
From 19-24 August Swiss alpinists Silvan Schüpbach and Peter von Känel made the first ascent of Renaissance, a big new climb on the North Face of the Eiger in Switzerland. The pair climbed the 1220m line without the use of bolts.
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
25/08/2023 - Climbing
Pete Whittaker frees Eigerdosis, 8c trad crack at Jøssingfjord in Norway
British rock climber Pete Whittaker has made the first free ascent of the second pitch of 'Eigerdosis' on the Profilveggen / Profile wall at Jøssingfjord in Norway. The previous aid climb is now a trad crack that checks in at 8c.
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
24/08/2023 - Alpinism
The day comes to Coston d'Averau (Dolomites) thanks to Michal Coubal, Anna Coubalová, Martin Tučka
The report and route topo of 'Utúlie‘n Aurë' (8-/RS3/I), the new multi-pitch first ascended in mid-July on the West Face of Coston d'Averau (Nuvolau, Dolomites) by Czech mountaineers Michal Coubal, Martin Tučka and Anna Coubalová.
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
15/08/2023 - Alpinism
Elios & Super Elios added to Tour de Jorasses by Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi, Tommaso Vection
Italian mountaineers Giuseppe Vidoni, Richard Tiraboschi and Tommaso Vection have made the first ascent of Super Elios on Tour de Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif. Vidoni reports.
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
14/08/2023 - Alpinism
Swift Tre Cime di Lavaredo double for Jernej Kruder: Pan Aroma and Spanish route
The report by Slovenian climber Jernej Kruder who earlier this summer made quick repeats of two hard climbs at the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites: Panaroma (8b+, 500m) on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo and the Spanish route on Cima Grande di Lavaredo (8b+, 550m).
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
07/08/2023 - Alpinism
Via Lisa added to Torre d'Ambiez in Italy's Brenta Dolomites by Alberto Bettoli, Francesco Salvaterra
The report by Italian mountain guide Francesco Salvaterra who on 10 September 2022 made the first ascent of Via Lisa on the east face of Torre d'Ambiez above Val d'Ambiez in the Brenta Dolomites.
Via Monologica added to Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites)
28/07/2023 - Alpinism
Via Monologica added to Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites)
On Torre di Mezzaluna in Vallaccia (Dolomites) Angelo Contessi and Leo Gheza, together with Stefano Ragazzo, established Via Monologica route. Contessi reports.

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