'Sikunga Express' first ascent on Baffin Island by Erik Boomer, Ky Hart

Over a period of 23 days at the start of May, American alpinists Erik Boomer and Ky Hart established a committing new route above Sam Ford Fiord, north of Clyde River, on Canada's Baffin Island. Located on the remote Sikunga mountain, Sikunga Express demanded a mix of ice, mixed, and aid climbing through sustained technical terrain and has been graded WI3 M7 5.10 A3+, 975m.

The pair used a snowmobile and traditional Inuit komatik sled to access the previously unclimbed wall. They started their climb on 1 May and during the next 23 days dealt not only with the technical difficulties and loose granite, but also extreme Arctic conditions. They reported daily highs around -7˚C and averages around -15˚C, as well as sudden, violent windstorm that left them clinging to their portaledge 500m above the ground with only one functional rope. After battling mid-route snowfall and dwindling gear — including three core-shot ropes — the climbers summited as temperatures suddenly warmed, triggering dangerous rockfall.

The pair climbed capsule-style and established 4 portaledge camps for their 20 nights on the wall. About 8 bolts were placed, mostly on the belays.