Erwan Legrand makes first ascent of legendary Le Bombé Bleu at Buoux
French climber Erwan Legrand has finally laid to rest one of sport climbing's most enduring mysteries, making the first ascent of Le Bombé Bleu at Buoux, France — a project that has defied the world's best for over three decades.
Bolted by child prodigy Marc Le Menestrel in 1991 and initially nicknamed Chantier, this extraordinary line of pockets cuts powerfully across the massive bulge above the La Plage sector. For 35 years, it remained an unrealised dream despite attempts by an honour roll of climbing legends: Ben Moon, Stefan Glowacz, Chris Sharma, Fred Rouhling, Iker Pou, Nicolas Januel, Loïc Zehani, Charles Albert, Nicolas Pelorson & Lucien Martinez, Alexander Megos and many move. The list of suitors is as long as the 16-move crux sequence is intense.
17-year-old Legrand, son of super-champion François Legrand, evidently has climbing in his DNA. His ascent on the 11th of February comes weeks after a stunning video surfaced showing him barefoot on the route — eschewing climbing shoes to better feel the footholds — executing the extremely difficult opening dyno with total mastery, flowing through the upper sequence with apparent ease.
Last December Legrand hadn't started from the very beginning, but instead 4 moves above the ledge where climbers can rest before the real difficulties begin. The section below, while significantly easier at around 7a/b, was still part of the complete line.
The climb was obviously within his grasp but conditions then worsened considerably and Legrand waited patiently prior to connect the entire series of fierce single finger and two-finger pockets from bottom to top, finally unlocking the "Holy Grail" of sport climbing. Legrand has not yet put forward a grade but that, given the route's pedigree, is a minor detail.
Breaking the news on his Instagram account, Legrad wrote "I've been dreaming of this moment for so long, and after 15 hard sessions of trying, it finally happened. This ascent means so much to me, more than any other. Completing such a beautiful, mythical, and historic route on my home crag is better than anything I could have dreamed of. The moment I realized I did it was the most powerful I’ve experienced so far. And I’ll never forget it.
Behind this moment of triumph lie dozens of failed attempts, constant pain in my fingers and toes, and long, frustrating waits because of the relentless rain this winter. All of this pushed me to my mental limits like no other project ever has. It felt like a trial for me, one that taught me a lot in many ways, and from which I emerge stronger.
Never give up.
Special thanks to my family, my friends and everyone who supported me on this journey. Also to Marc Le Ménestrel, who, 35 years ago (1991), had the vision to bolt this amazing futuristic line and preserved it from being chipped, at a time when most people wouldn’t have believed it could be climbed using only the natural holds."
A complete report with more information will follow in due course.
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