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Col du Brouillard, first descent of SW Couloir
Col du Brouillard, first descent of SW Couloir
Davide Capozzi and Roch Malnuit have carried out the probable first descent of the SW Couloir of Col du Brouillard in the Mont Blanc mountain range.
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
01/01/2011 - Climbing
Malvasia 22 years later... the first repeat by Cody Roth and the recollections of Manolo
On 28 December 2010 the American climber Cody Roth carried out the first repeat of Malvasia at Dvigrad in Croatia, the route bolted in 1987 and freed in 1988 by Maurizio 'Manolo' Zanolla which no one had managed to repeat. Roth believes the route to be a good 8c+... The...
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
21/12/2010 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, the fruit of the devil
Gabriele Moroni talks about Il frutto del diavolo 8c+/9a, his new route bolted and freed at Bus de Vela close to Arco, Italy.
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
17/12/2010 - Alpinism
Quo Vadis, new route by Tondini and Irsara on Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
Another new route on Sass dla Crusc (Dolomites) by Nicola Tondini and Ingo Irsara who established Quo Vadis on the massive mountain face, the symbol of the Val Badia.
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
09/12/2010 - Alpinism
Rosso 70, awarded at the Bansko Film Festival
Rosso 70, the film directed by Francesco Mansutti and Vinicio Stefanello and which retraces the 70 yera mountaineering history f the Scoiattoli mountaineering club in Cortina, has won the Jury's Special Prize during the Bulgaria's X° International Mountain Film Festival in Bansko
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
30/11/2010 - Alpinism
Accidents in the Himalaya and helicopter rescues
Simone Moro discusses helicopter rescues in the Himalaya, starting with the accident on Ama Dablam which cost the lives of two of his friends, the pilot Sabin Basnyat and the rescue operator Purna Awale, on a mission to rescue the alpinists David Göttler and Hiraide Kazuya.
Gérard Pailheiret has left us
28/11/2010 - Alpinism
Gérard Pailheiret has left us
On 23/11/2010 Gérard Pailheiret, the French mountain guide and symbol and promoter of a love for ice climbing, passed away after a long illness.
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
25/11/2010 - Interviews
Simone Moro, mountaineering, life, fears and doubts before GII this winter
Interview with Italian mountaineer Simone Moro, two months prior to his next expedition to attempt the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II (Karakorum, Pakistan) together with Denis Urubko.
Mescalito, Caldwell and Jorgeson abandon El Capitan
22/11/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito, Caldwell and Jorgeson abandon El Capitan
Due to a freak winter storm Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson have abandoned the Mescalito project, also known as the Dawn Wall project, on El Capitan in Yosemite.
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
07/11/2010 - Interviews
Fourteen times Edurne Pasaban
Interview with Edurne Pasaban, the Basque alpinist who has climbed all fourteen 8000m peaks. Interview by Erminio Ferrari and Ellade Ossola.
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
27/10/2010 - Climbing
Atlante Perverso, new route in Taghia, Morocco
From 20 - 24 September the Italians Giovanni Ongaro, Andrea Pavan and Davide Spini (Team Altroverso) established Atlante Perverso (350m, 8a max, 7b obl.) on the north face of Monte Oujad, Taghia, in the High Atlas mountain range in Morocco.
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
19/10/2010 - Alpinism
Greenland 2010 roundup and Nico Favresse interview
Interview with Belgian climber Nicolas Favresse after his three month climbing and sailing trip to Greenland.
The Tor de Geants mountain race by Stevie Haston.
18/10/2010 - Competitions
The Tor de Geants mountain race by Stevie Haston.
Stevie Haston, alpinist, ice climber and snowboarder, tells about his experience of the first ever Tor de Geants, the incredible mountain marathon which covers 330km and 24,000 vertical meters, starting and finishing at Courmayeur and completing a circle around the Valle d'Aosta, via the Gran Paradiso, Monte Rosa, the Matterhorn...
Transocean, new route on Wenden by Rathmayr and Ruhstaller
08/10/2010 - Climbing
Transocean, new route on Wenden by Rathmayr and Ruhstaller
Bernd Rathmayr and Reto Ruhstaller have established Transocean (7b+, 7a+ obl., 230m) on the Wendenstöcke in Switzerland.
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
05/10/2010 - Climbing
Simone Pedeferri and the first free ascent of Non sei più della mia banda
Between the 2nd and 3rd of September 2010 the Italian climber Simone Pedeferri carried out the first free ascent of "Non sei più della mia banda" (700m, 8a+ max, 7a+ obbl.), the route first ascended by Stefano "Pizza" Pizzagalli, Domenico Soldarini, Stefano Gaffuri and Cesare Romano on the emblematic Precipizio...

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