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Ricardo Scarian frees Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and repeats Thin Ice 8c at Terlago
27/04/2009 - Climbing
Ricardo Scarian frees Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and repeats Thin Ice 8c at Terlago
On 23 April Ricardo Scarian carried out the first ascent of Adidas 8b+ at Ranzo and the first repeat of Thin Ice 8c at Terlago, Italy
Adam Ondra raids Italy
21/04/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra raids Italy
Adam Ondra has returned to Italy and carried out the first ascent of "Vento nei Capelli" 8c+/9a at Cornalba and "La grande linea dei sogni"8c+/9a at Erto.
Petrohrad bouldering in the Czech Republic
06/04/2009 - Climbing
Petrohrad bouldering in the Czech Republic
Petrohrad is the best bouldering area in the Czech Republic, situated 50km northwest of Plzen and 80 km west of Prague. Much like Fontainebleau, the area is divided up into many sub-areas in a mysterious forest and offers thousands of problems and an enormous potential for the future.
Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
27/03/2009 - Climbing
Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
This too is what rock climbing and the Melloblocco is all about: a normal story about a happy day climbing with Patxi Usobiaga and Curt Marazzi.
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
25/03/2009 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbing at Angelone and Cornalba
On 20 March 16 year old Adam Ondra made the first ascents of Riti Tribali 8c+ and Nonono 8c at Angelone, while on 21 March at Cornalba he repeated Les Sindacalistes 8c+ second go before onsighting Outsider (8a+). Adam Ondra's full report and thoughts about his Italian holiday.
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
13/03/2009 - Climbing
Beat Kammerlander believes in Prinzip Hoffnung
Beat Kammerlander has made the first ascent of the trad route "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/8b+, E9-E10) at the Bürser Platte in Vorarlberg, Austria.
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
12/03/2009 - Climbing
Oman Jebel Misht new routes for Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr
Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have carried out the first ascent of "Fata Morgana" (F7c, 800m) up the S Face of Jebel Misht, Oman.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
05/03/2009 - Alpinism
Cochamo Valley Chile: new climbs by Austrian dream team
In December 2008 the Austrians David Lama, Barbara Bacher, Katharina Saurwein, Hansjörg Auer, Heiko Wilhelm and Dutchman Jorg Verhoeven travelled to Cochamo Valley in Chile and climbed a series of new routes in this granite valley.
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
02/03/2009 - Climbing
Tyler Landman Fontainebleau bouldering rampage
Tyler Landman from England has made a series of hard repeats in Fontainebleau, France, including the second ascent of Satan i Helvete assis, the FB8C.
Jerry Moffatt interview
26/02/2009 - Interviews
Jerry Moffatt interview
Interview with Jerry Moffatt, one of the most successful climbers in the world during the 1980's and 1990's, with important first ascents such as Stone Love 8b+ in Germany's Frankenjura and Liquid Ambar 8c+ at Lower Pen Trwyn, Wales and The Ace FB8B at Stanage, England.
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
17/02/2009 - Climbing
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
James Pearson has made a fast first repeat of the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.
Gianluca Daniele frees Grandi Gesti at the Grotta dell’Areonauta, Italy
21/01/2009 - Climbing
Gianluca Daniele frees Grandi Gesti at the Grotta dell’Areonauta, Italy
On 11 January Gainluca Daniele made the first ascent of "Grandi Gesti", proposing 9a for this long route which climbs through the massive roof at the Grotta dell'Areonauta and combines a series of exiting lines.
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
16/01/2009 - Climbing
Gabriele Moroni, Lumignano and a step back into climbing history
Last weekend Gabriele Moroni visited the historic Lumignano Classica in N. Italy and returned home with a climbing sweep-stake: flash ascents of Boomerang 8a+ and Atomic Café 8a, and a fantastic 2nd go ascent of Mare Allucinante 8b+.
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
12/01/2009 - Climbing
Ryan Pasquill frees major new route at Ilkley, England
Ryan Pasquill has made the first ascent of the impressive gritstone line to the left of The New Statesman at Ilkley, England. The route has been called Gerty Berwick.
Boom of ascents on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Ermanno Salvaterra's point of view
18/12/2008 - Alpinism
Boom of ascents on the West Face of Cerro Torre, Ermanno Salvaterra's point of view
Ermanno Salvaterra discusses the state of Patagonian mountaineering, starting with the large number of ascents on the West Face of Cerro Torre to talk about other class routes on the Torre and her sisters.