1157 News found

Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.

Simone Pedeferri has freed Dream of love 8c at Grotta del Ferro, Val di Mello, Italy.

The Czech climbing phenomenon Adam Ondra talks about competitions, his first months after high school, climbing at his limit and future projects in this detailed interview.

Nicola Noè’s report of the recent San Vito Lo Capo Climbing Festival 2012 and Climb for Life, the first 9a sport climb in Sicily freed by Adam Ondra.

Two new rock climbs up the fascinating Cima Cason de Formin in the Dolomites: Buon compleanno Nat (6c+, 215m Massimo Da Pozzo, Marco Alberti, Danilo Serafini) and La beffa (7a+/7b Massimo Da Pozzo, Pier Francesco Smaltini).

Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.

Last summer Maurizio Giordani, Luciano Ferrari and Nancy Paoletto made the first ascent of Via dei 6 Pilastri (940m, 6b+) up the South Face of Piz dell'Anticima Serauta (Marmolada, Dolomites)

The interview with Adam Ondra who on 04/10/2012 freed his mega project at the Hanshelleren - Flatanger cave in Norway. The 55m route is called Change, is graded 9b+ and is certainly one of the hardest sport climbs in the world

This summer Tomas Brt (Czech Republic), Vlado Linek and Jan Smolen (Slovakia) visited Greenland’s Tasermiut Fjord where they established two new routes, Turbo (VIII+, A2,1450m) on the South Face of Ketil and Keep Panic, Please (VIII, 1270m)  up the NW Face of  the N summit of Ulamertorsuaq.

Errata: contrary to what we published previously, Via Leila on Cima Cason de Formin (Croda da Lago, Dolomites) is not a new route but a lower variation (5 pitches) to Via Leber Kenedi first ascended in 1990 by Federico Michielli and Michele Da Pozzo.

On 7 - 8 September 2012 Alessandro Baù, Alessandro Beber and Nicola Tondini made the first free ascent of Colonne d'Ercole (1200m, max IX, obl. VIII+) up Punta Tissi on the NW Face of Civetta, Dolomites, the great new route they established between 2009 and 2012.

On 11/08/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent Alien (7a+, 150m), a new climb up the South Face of Presolana Centrale.

Cortina Mountain Guida Enrico Maioni presents Via Leila, a new climb up Cason de Formin in the Dolomites first ascended by Aldo Vascellari, Federico Zanettin and Giovanni Zanettin.

Austrian climbers Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have made the first free ascent of L'ultimo dei paracadutisti (8b+, 750m), the superb route established by Mariano Frizzera, Paolo Leoni and Graziano Maffei up the South Face of the Marmolada, Dolomites.

The second, decisive day of Rock Junior witnessed great performances in the Under 14 Cup, the verve of young climbers playing in Kid’s Rock and the legendary parent and children Family Rock relay race. A true festival for the 500 young climbers (aged 5 – 13) and the best way...

At the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Italian Dolomites the French climbers Stephanie Bodet and Arnaud Petit have repeated Alpenliebe and Camillotto Pellesier. Bodet shares her thoughts about these two climbs.