1206 News found

British climber Jordan Buys has made the first repeat of the gritstone route Loaded E8 7a at Ilkley Quarry, while his wife Naomi Buys made the first female ascent of Snap Decision E7 6c.

On 19/10/2011 Luca Giupponi and Maurizio Oviglia freed Millennium Bug (7b+, 110m), their new multi-pitch outing established ground-up across the beautiful Millennium cave at Cala Gonone in Sardinia. A particular route, perhaps unique even. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.

David Lama has made quick repeats of Stoamanndl 8b and Donnervogel 8b, first ascended by Alexander Huber, a few months after making the first repeat of Paciencia 8a on the North Face of the Eiger.

Italian climber Pietro dal Prà together with Alessandro Rudatis has established two difficult new multi-pitches, In mezzo poco (400m, 8a+) and Gracias a la Vida (270m, 8a+) up Lastia de Gardes in the Italian Dolomites.

Matteo Bernasconi and Davide Spini have established Cose Turche (300m 7a obligatory/8b?) up Kazilin Basi (2944m) in the Ala Daglar, Turkey.

At Kalymnos, Greece,  15-year-old Jenya Kazbekova has on-sighted Super Priaros 8a+.

Video of Neil Gresham deep water soloing in Pembroke, Wales

In August 2011 German climbers Martin Schindele, Lukas Binder, Philipp Hofmann and Tobias Baur established Dreams of Youth (8c, 700m) up Tsaranoro Atsimo, Madagascar.

The video of Adam Ondra and his rock climbing visit to Valmalenco, a true tour du force filmed by Luca Maspes “Rampikino”.

On 17/10/2011 Riccardo Scarian carried out the first free ascent of Shakti (200m, max 8b+/8c, obl. 7c/8a), the route he had established in August 2011 with various partners up the SW Face of Picco delle Aquile, Monte Coppolo, Valnuvola.

Last summer Alessio Roverato established Momento Libero (330m, 8a max, 7a/b obligatory), up the SE Face of Sasso Rosso (Valsugana, Valbrenta, Italy).

More than 250 new routes have been added to Getu in China for the Petzl RocTrip 2011 which kicks off officially tomorrow.

Neil Gresham has established Hydrotherapy 8a+ at Pembroke, one of the hardest Deep Water Solo outings in Great Britain.

During a brief trip to Italy the Japanese climber Yuji Hirayama visited the crags Discoteca, Cadarese, Valle dell'Orco and Balmanolesca in search of Italian trad.

Iker and Eneko Pou have made the first free ascent of two multi-pitches on Corcovado and Sugar Loaf Mountain in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil.

Interview with American climber Alex Honnold after his recent solo ascents of Heaven, Alien and Cosmic Debris in Yosemite, USA