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Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
04/02/2010 - Alpinism
Claudio Corti, goodbye to the alpinist and man
Italian alpinist Claudio Corti died during the night of 3 February at the age of 81 at his home in Lecco. He will be remembered as a member of the Gruppo Ragni della Grignetta but also as a man who knew how to tackle great tests, both in the mountains...
Krakow Mountain Festival
04/01/2010 - Events
Krakow Mountain Festival
Dorota Dubicka takes a look at the event which took place in Poland at the strat of December and attracted over 5000 visitors.
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
02/12/2009 - Alpinism
Hama Jomjuma, new route by Bonino, Meli e Cantù
From 20 - 22 November the Italians Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Meli and Francesco Cantù carried out the first ascent of "Ramri Keti" (1100m, WI5+/M7/5a) up the north face of Hama Jomjuma (5970m, Khumbu, Nepal).
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
01/12/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the north face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
13/11/2009 - Alpinism
Chang Himal North Face, Andy Houseman and Nick Bullock ascent details
The details of the first ascent of the 1800m high North Face of Chang Himal, Kanchenjunga Himalaya, Nepal, climbed in a five day alpine-style push by the British alpinists Nick Bullock and Andy Houseman at ED+.
Ekaitz Maiz climbs new 9a at Etxauri, Spain
28/10/2009 - Climbing
Ekaitz Maiz climbs new 9a at Etxauri, Spain
Ekaitz Maiz has made the first ascent of Basapiztien eremua 9a at Etxauri, Spain.
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
16/10/2009 - Climbing
Jenny Lavarda & Marco Ronchi and their ascents of Solo per vecchi guerrieri
Interview with Jenny Lavarda after the first free ascent of "Solo per vecchi guerrieri" (150m, 8c+/9a, Vette Feltrine, Dolomites), first ascended by Manolo and repeated by Mario Prinoth and Riccardo Scarian. She was accompanied by Marco Ronchi who also managed to redpoint the route that day.
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the north face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
25/08/2009 - Climbing
Manfred Stuffer solo climbing on the Sella, Dolomites
On 14/07/2009 Manfred Stuffer soloed the routes Geo, Regenbogen, Quo Vadis, Brusin and Brugger Walde on the Sella, Dolomites, in a mere 3.5 hours.
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
07/08/2009 - Alpinism
Goodbye Riccardo Cassin
Riccardo Cassin passed away last night at his home in Resinelli at the foot of his beloved Grigna mountain. Cassin was one of the world's all time absolute mountaineering legends. He had celebrated his 100th birthday on 2 January this year.
New route on the North Face of the Matterhorn
28/07/2009 - Alpinism
New route on the north face of the Matterhorn
Swiss mountaineer Jean Troillet and the Frenchmen Martial Dumas and Jean-Yves Fredriksen have made the first ascent of "Sébastien Gay" (600m ABO), a new difficult route up the north face of the Matterhorn.
Stephan Siegrist frees Magic Mushroom on the Eiger North Face
26/06/2009 - Climbing
Stephan Siegrist frees Magic Mushroom on the Eiger North Face
Swiss climber Stephan Siegrist has made the first successful redpoint ascent of "Magic Mushroom" up the north face of the Eiger. The route had been established in 2007 by Roger Schäli and Christoph Hainz and leads up the 3219 metres high mushroom in 21 pitches and now goes free at...
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
14/05/2009 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy Tehuelche route rare repeat by Slovenians Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic
In January the Slovenian climbers Urban Azman and Boris Lorencic made a rare ascent of Cia del Tehuelche up the north face of Fitz Roy, Patagonia.
Melloblocco ready steady go!
07/05/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco ready steady go!
The sixth Melloblocco starts today in the splendid Val di Mello, Val Masino, Italy. Thousands of climbers gather every year at this international bouldering meeting, which will come to an end on Sunday 10 May.
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
04/05/2009 - Climbing
First ascents in Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, Patagonia
In February a small American team of climbers carried out a first ascent of Voces en la Noche, (V 5.11 A0) on Pirita Right in the remote Argentian Piritas Valley, Rio Turbio, while a Canadian team produced Todos los Caballos Lindos (5.11-) on Pirita Central.
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
02/05/2009 - Events
Piolet d'Or 2009, the winners
Last Saturday the Piolets d'Or 2009 were assigned in Chamonix and a total of three awards were given in this 17th edition: Kazuya Hiraide and Kei Taniguchi from Japan for their ascent of Kamet (India); Fumitaka Ichimura, Yusuke Sato and Kazuki Amano from Japan for their new route on Kalanka...

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