987 News found

The Austrians Hansjörg Auer and Much Mayr have established Tingeling (400m 7c+), a new free enchainment up the massive granite Blamann tower on the island of Kvaløya in Norway. Due to prohibitive conditions the route still awaits its first continuous redpoint ascent.

The details of an immortal route: the Cassin route up the Walker Super on the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc) introduced by Mountain Guide Enrico Bonino who climbed the route last week with an (extremely strong) client, Max Lucco.

On 14 and 21 June 2010 Rolando Larcher and Maurizio Oviglia established their Camaleontica (290m, 7a+ max 6c+ obbl.), a new trad route up the north face of Punta Cusidore, Supramonte, Sardinia

Hervé Barmasse, Daniele Bernasconi and Mario Panzeri have carried out the first ascent of the hitherto unclimbed Venere Peak (6300m), China. A difficult acclimatisation before the next adventure, the virgin North Face of Gasherbrum 1.

On 30/06/2010 the Austrian climber Hansjörg Auer carried out the first repeat of Pan Aroma 8c, Cima Ovest di Lavaredo, Dolomites

On 04/06/2010 Francesco Civra Dano and Luca Rolli skied the north face of Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey (Mont Blanc) via the Grivel - Chabod route. The first and only ski descent was carried out in 1980 by Stefano De Benedetti.

Contrary to what we published previously, the ascent by the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn is not the first ascent of the north face of Monte Sarmiento, as this had previously been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition which on 24/12/1986 reached the West Summit...

Interview with Gerold Biner, operations manager of Air Zermatt, after the recent helicopter rescue missions in the Himalaya.

In winter 2010 Florian and Martin Riegler carried out the first ascent of Schachmatt - Checkmate- 1000m M10+ WI5 55°) on the north face of Gran Zebrù.

At the start of April the Germans Robert Jasper, Jörn Heller and Ralf Gantzhorn reached the West summit of Monte Sarmiento (2145m) via a new route up the north face.

CORRECTION 05/2010: the north face had already been climbed by an Italian Ragni di Lecco expedition in 1986

In January 2010 Ueli Steck soloed the Ginat route (ED,V, M4+, 85°, 1000m) up the north face of Les Droites in 2:08. Check out the video and interview.

The Piolets d'or 2010 were won by Denis Urubko and Boris Dedechko for their route on Cho Oyu and by Jed Brown, Kyle Dempster and Bruce Normand for their route up Xuelian West. Reinhold Messner received the lifetime achievement award; Walter Bonatti star guest at Courmayeur.

The Piolet d'Or 2010 will take place from 8 - 10 April in the towns of Courmayeur and Chamonix with a series of conferences, debates, films, meetings and other cultural activities. The event begins on Thursday 8 April in Courmayeur with an evening dedicated to young climbing partnerships...

At the end of 2009 Enrico Bonino, Nicolas Melis and Francesco Cantù establised three new routes in the Khumbu valley, Nepal.

Almost unreal winter conditions in the Slovenian Alps have resulted in a flurry of interesting ascents. Slovenian alpinist Andrej Grmovšek provides the report.

Ellade Ossola interviews Swiss alpinist and mountain guide Simon Anthamatten, a key player in the mountaineering world with important ascents to his name which have their roots in his desire to maintain an "independent" alpinism.