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Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
03/07/2022 - Alpinism
Marmolada glacier collapse kills 11. 'Phase 2' now begins on the Queen of the Dolomites
A huge portion of the Marmolada glacier in the Italian Dolomites collapsed below Punta Rocca early on Sunday afternoon, killing 11 mountaineers.
- All 11 victims have been identified
- Phase Two now begins, marked by drone searches for the next 10 days and the collection of findings every 3...
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
24/06/2022 - Alpinism
New Ranrapalca route in Peru by Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori, Giovanni Zaccaria
On 10/06/2022 on north face of Ranrapalca 6162m in Peru the Italian mountaineers Thomas Gianola, Alessio Miori and Giovanni Zaccaria established a new mixed route alpine style. 'Mucha Banana', is 600m high with difficulties estimated at 80°, AI3+, M5.
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
26/05/2022 - Interviews
Surreal and magical. David Göttler on Everest without supplementary oxygen
Interview with German alpinist David Göttler who at 9:45am on 21 May 2022 reached the summit of Everest without supplementary oxygen. This is the 43-year-old's sixth 8000er, after Gasherbrum II, Broad Peak, Dhaulagiri, Lhotse and Makalu.
Davide Sassudelli paraglides off Campanile Basso in Brenta Dolomites
04/03/2022 - Alpinism
Davide Sassudelli paraglides off Campanile Basso in Brenta Dolomites
On 27/02/2022 Italian alpinist Davide Sassudelli flew off the summit of Campanile Basso (2877m) in the Brenta Dolomites after having climbed via Preuss with Matteo Pavana and Stefano Piatti. This is the first paraglider flight from the most famous tower in the Dolomites.
Nanga Parbat, Manaslu and Everest in winter
25/12/2021 - Alpinism
Nanga Parbat, Manaslu and Everest in winter
Winter attempts on some of the highest mountains in the world are about to begin: Hervé Barmasse, David Göttler, Mike Arnold and Qudrat Ali will attempt Nanga Parbat; Simone Moro, Alex Txikon and Rinzee Sherpa will try their luck on Manaslu; Jost Kobusch will attempt to solo Everest.
Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
23/11/2021 - Alpinism
Yasushi Yamanoi to receive Lifetime Achievement Award Piolet d'Or Carrière 2021
Japanese mountaineer Yasushi Yamanoi is to receive the13th Piolets d'Or Carrière Lifetime Achievement Award. The prize giving ceremony will be celebrated in Briançon, France, from 26 to 29 November.
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
12/10/2021 - Alpinism
Tomas Franchini climbs fast and light in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru
The report by Tomas Franchini, currently in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru, where he has climbed Nevado Ulta and Nevado Huandoy Norte.
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
28/09/2021 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Roger Schäli climb Grandes Jorasses and complete North6 project
With the ascent of The Shroud route on the Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif, Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli have completed North6, their project to climb the six most famous north faces of the Alps, traveling from one mountain to the next by bike. The two mountaineers required...
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
20/08/2021 - Alpinism
Slovenians score two new climbs on Hualcan in Peru
In July a Slovenian Youth Alpine Team comprised of Matija Volontar, Bor Levičnik, Matevž Štular and Blaž Karner succeeded in climbing two new routes on Hualcan (6122m) in the Cordillera Blanca, Peru. Štular provides the report of the ascents, one of which was carried out with Aritza Monasterio.
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
19/08/2021 - Alpinism
New climb on Peru’s Nevado Sullcon Sur by Steve Meder, Edward Saona
On the 9th of August, the French-Peruvian Andinists Steve Meder and Edward Saona established a new route up the South-West Face of Nevado Sullcon Sur (5650m) in the Central Cordillera mountain range of Peru. Cara Suroeste Directa is only the 4th ascent of the mountain.
First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
10/07/2021 - Alpinism
First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
In November 2020 Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren, Sebastian Rojas, Nicolas Valderrama and Galo Viguera scored the first ski descent of South Face of Monte San Valentin, at 4058m the highest mountain in Patagonia. De Andraca and Rojas with Cristonal Diaz and Diego Saez completed the first winter ascent and...
Tschenglser Hochwand North Face skied in Ortler range by Florian Cappello, Roland Striker
Tschenglser Hochwand North Face skied in Ortler range by Florian Cappello, Roland Striker
At the end of May Florian Cappello and Roland Stricker skied a new line down the North Face of Tschenglser Hochwand / Croda di Cengles in the Ortler - Cevedale range, Italy.
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Interview with mountain guide Hermann Comploj who on 24/03/2021 made the first ski descent of the North Couloir on Col Turont (2419m) in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
21/04/2021 - Alpinism
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
08/03/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
On 03/03/2021 on Civetta, Dolomites, the two Italian mountain guides Nicola Tondini and Lorenzo D’Addario made the first winter ascent of Dulcis in fundo.
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
04/03/2021 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time both routes have been climbed in winter.

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