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First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
10/07/2021 - Alpinism
First ski descents on Monte San Valentin in Patagonia and Altos de los Arrieros in Chile
In November 2020 Raimundo De Andraca, Antonio Eguiguren, Sebastian Rojas, Nicolas Valderrama and Galo Viguera scored the first ski descent of South Face of Monte San Valentin, at 4058m the highest mountain in Patagonia. De Andraca and Rojas with Cristonal Diaz and Diego Saez completed the first winter ascent and...
Tschenglser Hochwand North Face skied in Ortler range by Florian Cappello, Roland Striker
Tschenglser Hochwand North Face skied in Ortler range by Florian Cappello, Roland Striker
At the end of May Florian Cappello and Roland Stricker skied a new line down the North Face of Tschenglser Hochwand / Croda di Cengles in the Ortler - Cevedale range, Italy.
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Hermann Comploj completes big first ski descent down Col Turont, Dolomites
Interview with mountain guide Hermann Comploj who on 24/03/2021 made the first ski descent of the North Couloir on Col Turont (2419m) in Langental / Vallunga, Dolomites, Italy.
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
21/04/2021 - Alpinism
Adamello, Busazza, Presanella: three north faces climbed in a day by Leonardo Gheza, Giulia Venturelli
Italian mountaineers Leonardo Gheza and Giulia Venturelli enchained the north faces of Adamello, Cima della Busazza and Presanella in a single day. The 51km outing covered 3700 vertical gain and was completed in 22 hours.
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
08/03/2021 - Alpinism
Dolomites Dulcis in fundo: first winter ascent on Civetta by Nicola Tondini, Lorenzo D'Addario
On 03/03/2021 on Civetta, Dolomites, the two Italian mountain guides Nicola Tondini and Lorenzo D’Addario made the first winter ascent of Dulcis in fundo.
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
04/03/2021 - Alpinism
Civetta Dolomites double: first winter ascents of Chimera Verticale and W Mexico Cabrones
Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time both routes have been climbed in winter.
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
26/02/2021 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses new climb by Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri, Luca Schiera
On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
16/11/2020 - Alpinism
New mixed climb on Wasserkopf in South Tyrol by Simon Gietl, Davide Prandini
On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...
Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the Dolomites with Bruno Pederiva
12/11/2020 - Alpinism
Marmolada: exploring the first refuge in the Dolomites with Bruno Pederiva
The oldest refuge in the Dolomites, located on the east face of Punta Penia on Marmolada, featuring mountain guide Bruno Pederiva.
Mount Tetnuldi, Georgia: Temur Kurdiani solos new route up West Face
24/10/2020 - Alpinism
Mount Tetnuldi, Georgia: Temur Kurdiani solos new route up West Face
Temur Kurdiani has made the solo first ascent of a new route up the West Face of Tetnuldi in the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range in Georgia.
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
17/09/2020 - Alpinism
Matterhorn Italian Route: Échelle Jordan temporarily inaccessible
The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
07/08/2020 - Alpinism
Filip Babicz speed solo ascent of Mont Blanc Integralissima de Peuterey
Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.
Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview
28/07/2020 - Interviews
Laura Rogora: the second woman to climb 9b interview
Interview with 19-year old Italian climber Laura Rogora after her repeat at Rodellar in Spain of Ali hulk sit extension total, thanks to which she became the second woman in the world to climb 9b.
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
24/07/2020 - Alpinism
Simon Gietl, Andrea Oberbacher decipher their DNA on Cima Ovest di Lavaredo
The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
19/07/2020 - Alpinism
Grandes Jorasses East Face new climb by Jérôme Sullivan, Jérémy Brauge, Victor Saucède
French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.
Marcel Remy, 94, climbing Miroir de l’Argentine in Switzerland
12/04/2020 - Alpinism
Marcel Remy, 94, climbing Miroir de l’Argentine in Switzerland
The film Marcel directed by Nicolas Falquet which follows Marcel Remy as he climbs the west face of Miroir de l'Argentine in Switzerland. Father of the famous Swiss mountaineers Claude and Yves Remy, Marcel repeated the route in 2017 aged 94.