220 News found

On 03/03/2021 on Civetta, Dolomites, the two Italian mountain guides Nicola Tondini and Lorenzo D’Addario made the first winter ascent of Dulcis in fundo.

Two huge climbs were repeated on the northwest face of Civetta in the Dolomites, Italy: Chimera Verticale by Titus Prinoth and Alex Walpoth, and W Mexico Cabrones by Alessandro Baù, Thomas Gianola and Giovanni Zaccaria. This is the first time both routes have been climbed in winter.

On 24/02/2021 the Italian mountaineers Matteo Della Bordella, Giacomo Mauri and Luca Schiera made the first ascent of Il Regalo di Berna, a new route on the South Face of the Grandes Jorasses dedicated to Matteo Bernasconi. Della Bordella reports.

On 07/11/2020, just before South Tyrol declared itself in lockdown due to Covid, Simon Gietl and Davide Prandini made the first ascent of Aquädukt (IV, M5 650m), a new mixed climb up the north face of Wasserkopf (3135m) in the Rieserferner group of the Tauern Alps. At 3/4 height the...

The oldest refuge in the Dolomites, located on the east face of Punta Penia on Marmolada, featuring mountain guide Bruno Pederiva.

Temur Kurdiani has made the solo first ascent of a new route up the West Face of Tetnuldi in the Greater Caucasus Mountain Range in Georgia.

The Italian Matterhorn Guides inform that due to rockfall the Échelle Jordan ladder is currently inaccessible. The guides have equipped a new line to the left of the ladder in order to reach the summit.

Polish mountaineer Filip Babicz has made a solo ascent of the Integralissima de Peuterey in the Mont Blanc massif in an astounding 17 hours. This is the first repeat of the 'Longest ridge in the Alps’, first climbed in full by the Germans Gottlieb Braun-Elwert and Rudi Kirmeier in 1973.

Interview with 19-year old Italian climber Laura Rogora after her repeat at Rodellar in Spain of Ali hulk sit extension total, thanks to which she became the second woman in the world to climb 9b.

The two mountain guides Simon Gietl and Andrea Oberbacher have made the first ascent of DNA, a new multi-pitch rock climb up Croda degli Alpini, the foresummit of Cima Ovest in the Tre Cime di Lavaredo group of the Italian Dolomites.

French alpinist and mountain guide Jérôme Sullivan reports about Mad Max, a new route up the East Face of Grandes Jorasses in the Mont Blanc massif established from 8-9 July 2020 with Jérémy Brauge and Victor Saucède.

The film Marcel directed by Nicolas Falquet which follows Marcel Remy as he climbs the west face of Miroir de l'Argentine in Switzerland. Father of the famous Swiss mountaineers Claude and Yves Remy, Marcel repeated the route in 2017 aged 94.

Interview with South Tyrolean mountaineer Simon Gietl after his solitary winter traverse of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo in the Dolomites. From 24 to 25 February the 35-year-old climbed Cima Ovest, Cima Grande, Cima Piccola, Punta di Frida and Cima Piccolissima.

At the end of December 2019 Czech skyrunner Martin Zhor raced to the summit of Aconcagua (6962m) in just 3 hours, 38 minutes and 17 seconds. In doing so he has set a new record for the journey from Plaza de Mulas Base Camp to the top.

30 years today: on 24 October 1989, Polish mountaineer Jerzy Kukuczka died while attempting Lhotse. Kukuczka was the second man to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders after Reinhold Messner and an absolute legend of high altitude Himalayan mountaineering.

Italian mountaineer Matteo Della Bordella provides the details about the successful climbing expedition to the Garhwal Himalaya in India where with Luca Schiera and Matteo De Zaiacomo he made the first ascent of the coveted west face of Bhagirathi IV (6193m). And miraculously escaped scary rockfall a few days earlier.