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Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
27/03/2009 - Climbing
Flashback Melloblocco 2008, a day climbing Luna Nascente
This too is what rock climbing and the Melloblocco is all about: a normal story about a happy day climbing with Patxi Usobiaga and Curt Marazzi.
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
19/03/2009 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2009 - you know the score
The sixth edition of the Melloblocco will take place in Val di Mello (Val Masino, Sondrio, Italy). This annual international bouldering meeting attracts thousands of boulderers and climbers from all over the world.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
06/03/2009 - Alpinism
Norway ice climbing first ascents by Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli
Robert Jasper, Markus Stofer & Roger Schäli travelled to Norway in February and carried out three important first ascents, including Fosslimonster M8+, WI6+, E5, 800m height difference, ca.1000m length at Aurland.
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
02/03/2009 - Events
Piolets d'Or 2009, preview
From 22 - 25 April the 17th edition of the Piolets d'Or will take place between Chamonix and Courmayeur. This is possibly the most famous mountaineering award in the world, so much so that it has been defined as the Oscar of alpinism.
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
26/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain sport climbing: Margalef access problems and Adam Ondra & Daila Ojeda in Oliana
At Oliana, Spain, Adam Ondra repeats Papichulo 9a+ and Daila Ojeda makes the first ascent of China Crisis 8b+. Margalef refuge owner Jordi Pou warns that irrespective behaviour may result in sectors being banned.
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
25/02/2009 - Alpinism
Will Gadd ice climbing fest in Canada
Two massive first ascents in Canada: The Jimmy Skid Rig (WI5 M12, 300m, Will Gadd, Will Meinen and Brandon Pullan) and Hunlen Falls (5.9 A2, 370m, Will Gadd & EJ Plimley).
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
17/02/2009 - Climbing
James Pearson grabs fast repeat of Gerty Berwick, Ilkley
James Pearson has made a fast first repeat of the gritstone testpiece Gerty Berwick at Ilkley Quarry, England.
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
13/02/2009 - Alpinism
Leben ist jetzt, Dolomites mixed route by Astner and Ciulli
In January Kurt Astner and Emanuele Ciulli made the first ascent of Leben ist jetzt (200m, IV/M7+/ice 80/90°), a modern 5 pitch mixed route in Val di Tures (Riva di Tures, Dolomites).
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
10/02/2009 - Climbing
Free South Africa, first free route up the Central Tower of Paine for Favresse, Villanueva and Ditto
After 11 days on the wall Nicolas Favresse, Sean Villanueva amd Ben Ditto have carried out the first free ascent of the South African route on the East Face of the Central Tower of Paine, Patagonia.
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
09/02/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009 won by Bendler and Tolokonina
Last weekend Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia won the third and final stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup 2009 Lead and in doing so they also won the overall Trophy 2009. Maria Tolokonina won the Speed event, together with teammate Pavel Gulyaev.
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
06/02/2009 - Alpinism
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
Hervé Barmasse, Giovanni Ongaro and Daniele Bernasconi have completed the traverse of the Hielo Continetal Sud and safely reached the Falcon Ford. Their idea of climbing the North Pillar of Cerro Riso Patron faltered as the mountain proved inaccessible, so much so that reaching the Fjord proved an undertaking in...
Ice World Cup 2009: Markus Bendler and Angelika Rainer win in Saas Fee
26/01/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009: Markus Bendler and Angelika Rainer win in Saas Fee
Markus Bendler from Austria and Angelika Rainer from Italy won the Ice Climbng World Championship and the second stage of the Ice Climbing World Cup, held in Switzerland's Saas Fee last weekend. Russian athletes Maria Tolokonina and Pavel Gulyaev doubled their Daone success and won the Speed event.
Ice World Cup 2009: Bendler and Tolokonina win the Ice Master in Daone
19/01/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009: Bendler and Tolokonina win the Ice Master in Daone
On 18/01/09 Markus Bendler from Austria and Maria Tolokonina from Russia won the 8th Ice Master in Valle di Daone, valid as the first stage of the Difficulty Ice Climbing World Cup 2009. Maria Tolokonina also won the Speed event together with teammate Pavel Gulyaev.
Ice World Cup 2009: the start with the Ice Master in Daone
15/01/2009 - Competitions
Ice World Cup 2009: the start with the Ice Master in Daone
The 8th Ice Master will take place in Valle di Daone, Italy from 16 - 25 January. With its Difficulty and Speed events, this competition marks the start of the ice Climbing World Cup 2009. The 11th edition of the La Sportiva International Ice Meeting is open to all and...
La sor blanche, new Dolomites mixed route by Riegler brothers
08/01/2009 - Alpinism
La sor blanche, new Dolomites mixed route by Riegler brothers
On 26 December 2008 the brothers Florian and Martin Riegler mande the first ascent of 'Sorella bianca“ (M9 WI6-), a new drytooling and mixed route in Val Lunga (Val Gardena, Dolomites, Italy).

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