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Matteo Gambaro frees Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Piatta di Montemale, Italy
22/10/2009 - Climbing
Matteo Gambaro frees Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Piatta di Montemale, Italy
On 17 October Matteo Gambaro made the first ascent of Azione Diretta 8c+/9a at Borgata Piatta a Montemale, Cuneo, Italy.
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
09/10/2009 - Climbing
Lisa Benetti climbs Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo
At the start of October Lisa Benetti climbed Progetto 8b+ at the Covolo, Italy.
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
18/09/2009 - Climbing
Eiger North Face, Japanese Diretissima freed by Jasper and Schäli
Robert Jasper from Germany and Roger Schäli from Switzerland have made the first free ascent of the famous "Japanese Diretissima" on the North Face of Eiger. The route now goes free at 8a and is a very serious alpine undertaking indeed.
Vie ferrate around Cortina
16/07/2009 - Trekking
Vie ferrate around Cortina
The Cortina Mountain Guides have comunicated that all the vie ferrate around Cortina can now be ascended.
Climbing World Championships, Qinghai, China
07/07/2009 - Competitions
Climbing World Championships, Qinghai, China
The IFSC Climbing World Championships drew to a close on 05/07/2009 in Qinghai with Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza (ESP) and Johanna Ernst (AUT) winning the Lead. The Russians Alexey Rubtsov and Yulia Abramchuk won the Bouldering event, while Speed was won by the Chinese Qixin Zhong and Cuilian He.
Italy, Spain and the 8000m peaks by Nives Meroi and Edurne Pasaban
27/05/2009 - Alpinism
Italy, Spain and the 8000m peaks by Nives Meroi and Edurne Pasaban
Ismael Santos, the great Spanish basketball player and passionate mountaineer based in Italy, shares his views about how the public opinion and Spanish and Italian media perceives the achievements of Nives Meroi and Edurne Pasaban. We believe this to be an important contribution which helps comprehend what is happening and...
Bernd Zangerl Chironico bouldering fest
07/04/2009 - Climbing
Bernd Zangerl Chironico bouldering fest
On 17 March Bernd Zangerl carried out the first repeat of "From Dirt Grows The Flowers", the Fb8c problem first climbed by Dave Graham in 2005 at Chironico, Switzerland.
Stalattica, Livigno icefall first ascent by Salini and Panizza
30/03/2009 - Alpinism
Stalattica, Livigno icefall first ascent by Salini and Panizza
Fabio Salini and Emanuel Panizza have carried out the first ascent of Stalattica (60m, IV,5,X), a beautiful ice fall in the Livingo area, Italy.
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
16/03/2009 - Alpinism
Nives Meroi and Romano Benet head to Kangchenjunga
On Sunday 15/03 Nives Meroi and Romano Benet departed from Italy to attempt Kangchenjunga, their 12th 8000m peak. Located on the border between Nepal and India, this 8586m mountain is the third highest in the world.
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
10/03/2009 - Alpinism
Masada Sass Maor, first winter ascent by Larcher and Leoni
From 27 - 28 February 2009 Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent of via Masada (1260m, VIII, A0) on the East Face of Sass Maor (Pale di San Martino, Dolomites). The story by Larcher and video of the ascent.
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
09/03/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing and its history: Repentance 20 years on
Repentance was first climbed in Cogne, Valle d'Aosta in 1989 by François Damilano, Fulvio Conta and Giancarlo Grassi and soon became the symbol of a new ice climbing era in the Alps. Twenty years after the first ascent Damilano and Conta joined forces once again to repeat the route. Elio...
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Jof di Montasio South Face, first ski descent of by Luca Vuerich
Luca Vuerich has carried out the first ski descent of the South Face of Jof di Montasio 2753m (Julian Alps).
Ice climbing beyond Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
26/02/2009 - Alpinism
Ice climbing beyond Cogne, Valle d'Aosta, Italy
Enrico Bonino introduces 4 icefalls which rarely come into condition and which have reformed during this exceptional winter in Valle d'Aosta, Italy. Located between Valsavarenche and Valtournenche, they are off the beaten track from the more famous areas around Cogne.
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
24/02/2009 - Climbing
Spain climbing action: Chris Sharma at Margalef, Geoffray De Flaugergues at Alquezar
Chris Sharma has made the first ascent of Demencia Senil 9a+ at Margalef while 13 year old Geoffray De Flaugergues from France has repeated El templo del cafe 8c+/9a at Alquezar.
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
23/02/2009 - Alpinism
Exceptional ice climbing conditions in Ossola, Switzerland
Over the last 10 days 6 teams have repeated "Buon compleanno", the beatuiful drip in Gole di Gondo (Ossola, Switzerland) which last came into conditions 8 years ago.
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
06/02/2009 - Alpinism
Hielo Continental: the Ragni di Lecco expedition completes traverse
Hervé Barmasse, Giovanni Ongaro and Daniele Bernasconi have completed the traverse of the Hielo Continetal Sud and safely reached the Falcon Ford. Their idea of climbing the North Pillar of Cerro Riso Patron faltered as the mountain proved inaccessible, so much so that reaching the Fjord proved an undertaking in...

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