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Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
07/04/2016 - Alpinism
Piolets d'Or 2016: four ascents honoured
From 14 - 17 April four climbs will be celebrated during the Piolets d’Or 2016, the international mountaineering award scheduled to take place at la Grave-La Meije in France. The selected ascents are: Talung (Nepal) by Ukrainian alpinists Nikita Balabanov and Mikhail Fomin; Gave Ding (Nepal) by British mountaineers Mick...
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
06/04/2016 - Alpinism
Hard new mixed climb at Percé, Canada by Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard
On 17 March 2016 the alpinists Carl Darveau and Jean-François Girard have made the first ascent of Aller Simple pour Mars, a difficult new mixed climb up the Pic de l’Aurore face at Percé, Canada graded M7+ WI7- 190m.
Sardinia climbing news: all the routes on Monte Oddeu, Dorgali
04/04/2016 - Climbing
Sardinia climbing news: all the routes on Monte Oddeu, Dorgali
Using a new route on Sardinia’s Monte Oddeu as a pretext, Maurizio Oviglia introduces all the climbs up this mountains beautiful East Face, including the new "L’imbrago… bello stretto" established by Marco Marceddu and Daniele Turco in honor of Oskar Piazza.
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
29/03/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing at Leonidio, new multi-pitch climb in Greece
On the East Face of Garden of Dionysus above Leonidio in Greece the Italian climbers Dimitri Anghileri, Simone Pedeferri and Luca Schiera have opened Fuori di Zucca, a new 155m multi-pitch sports climb graded 7c+/8a (7b obligatory). The report by Dimitri Anghileri.
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
23/03/2016 - Climbing
El Chaman Loco, new rock climb in Mexico by Maggioni, Marazzi and Pedeferri
In November 2015 Simone Pedeferri, Paolo Marazzi and Marco Maggioni made the first ascent of El Chaman Loco up the El Chaman face at El Salto, Mexico. Some pitches along this 400m climb still need to be freed, with difficulties estimated at 8c. The trip report by Paolo Marazzi.
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Grande Rocheuse Voie Originale, first ski and snowboard descent by Capozzi, Galli, Herry and Trento
Julien Herry reports about the first ski and snowboard descent of the Voie Originale down the South Face of Grande Rocheuse (4102m) in the Mont Blanc massif, carried out together with Davide Capozzi, Lambert Galli and Denis Trento.
Alpinism: new ice and mixed climbs at Nipissis in Quebec
16/03/2016 - Alpinism
Alpinism: new ice and mixed climbs at Nipissis in Quebec
In February 2016 Jean-Philippe Belanger, Jas Fauteux, Maarten van Haeren, Charles Roberge and Pete Takeda established six new ice climbs at the Le mur de 51 wall in the remote Nipissis area in Quebec, Canada.
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
11/03/2016 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, Patagonia: new climb by Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smoleň
On 30-31/01/2016 the Slovak alpinists Michal Sabovčík and Ján Smolen made the first ascent of Asado (665m, 7a+, M8, A2), a new climb up the South Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia.
Climbing video at Monterrey, Mexico: El Lobo del Deserto by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
10/03/2016 - Climbing
Climbing video at Monterrey, Mexico: El Lobo del Deserto by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
The video of the first ascent of El Lobo del Desierto, a new multi-pitch rock climb established by Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi at the start of January 2016 up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos at Monterrey in Mexico.
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
09/03/2016 - Climbing
Chad Climbing Expedition 2015
Alessandro Beber retraces the climbing expedition to the Republic of Chad, carried out toward the end of 2015 together with Stefano Angelini, Fabrizio Dellai, Matteo Faletti, Jiri Leskovjan, Alessandro Lucchi and Piero Ravà.
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
05/03/2016 - Alpinism
El Condor Pasa, Slovaks climb new big wall in Cochamó valley, Chile
Jozef Kristoffy, Martin Krasnansky and Vlado Linek have made the first ascent of El Condor Pasa (8b, 700m) on Cerro Trinidad Central in the Cochamo valley in Patagonia, Chile.
Punta Pilocca... multi-pitches! Sardinia's historic climbing revamped
02/03/2016 - Climbing
Punta Pilocca... multi-pitches! Sardinia's historic climbing revamped
Over the past two months Corrado Pibiri and climbing partners have revamped some historical multi-pitch rock climbs at Punta Pilocca, one of Sardinia’s most beautiful crags. As always, some new routes were created by Pibiri, Fabrizio Lampis, Fabio Erriu and Maurizio Oviglia, who now provides the most recent updates.
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
25/02/2016 - Climbing
Pico Pirineos in Mexico, new rock climb at Monterrey by Giupponi, Oviglia and Larcher
Rolando Larcher, Maurizio Oviglia and Luca Giupponi have made the first ascent of "El lobo del desierto", a new rock climb up the East and North Faces of Pico Pirineos, the massive towers above Monterrey in Mexico. Established over 5 days and freed by the Italians, the route is 12...
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
24/02/2016 - Alpinism
Karakoram Link Sar West climbed by Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman
In July 2015 British alpinists Jon Griffith and Andy Houseman made the first ascent Link Sar West, a 6,938m summit in Pakistan’s Karakoram. The two climbed the Northwest Face via their route Fever Pitch.
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
19/02/2016 - Alpinism
New Japanese climbs in Argentine Patagonia
In January and February 2016 the Japanese climbers Takaaki Nagato and Jumbo Katsutaka Yokoyama established two new routes in Patagonia: Knobmania (7c, 400m) up the West Face of Aguja El Tridente and Pilar Canino (7b, 600m) up the West Face of Cerro Piergiorgio.
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
17/02/2016 - Alpinism
Raru valley Himalaya climbs by Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jost - Matic
Between 20 July and 9 September 2015 the Slovenian alpinists Anastasija Davidova and Matija Jošt - Matic made what are believed to be the first ascents of three previously unclimbed peaks in the India’s Raru valley: Khumchu Ri 6064m, Kun Long Ri 6058m and Ri Pok Te 6210m.

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