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Res-Max, first descent in the Adamello – Presanella range
Res-Max, first descent in the Adamello – Presanella range
On 11/03/2011 Giuliano Bordoni, Bruno Compagnet, Minna Riihamaki and Oli Herrer carried out the first descent of the gully located between Canale del Dito and Canale Pericle-Sacchi in the Adamello - Presanella range, Italy
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
21/03/2011 - Alpinism
Piolet d'Or 2011: the nominations, Doug Scott receives Lifetime Achievement, and all the evenings
The IXX Piolet d'Or will take place from 13 - 16 April 2011 at Courmayeur and Chamonix (Mont Blanc). Six ascents are in the running for the golden ice axe, while the great British mountaineer Doug Scott will receive the Lifetime Achievement Award. Details of the evening dedicated to Extra-Ordinary...
Pressknödel, first winter ascent by Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli
14/03/2011 - Alpinism
Pressknödel, first winter ascent by Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli
Simon Gietl and Roger Schäli ahve carried out the first winter ascent of Pressknödel (7c, 400m) on Cima Ovest, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites.
Cugi's Corner, new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina
11/03/2011 - Alpinism
Cugi's Corner, new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina
On 5 March 2011 the Italians Barry Bona and Simone Favero established Cugi's Corner, a new route up the NW Face of Cimon di Palantina (Col Nudo-Cavallo moutain chain, Alpago, Dolomites).
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
23/02/2011 - Alpinism
Goulotte fantasma on Punta Sant'anna
On 6 February 2011 the Italians Luca Maspes, Annalisa Bonfanti and Anna Ceruti climbed Goulotte Santanna (250m) up the South East Face of Sant'Anna 3171m, Val Porcellizzo, Alta Val Masino).
Petit Mont Blanc, ENE Face descent
Petit Mont Blanc, ENE Face descent
On 11/02/2011 Davide Capozzi from Italy and Julien Herry from France carried out the what is likely to be the first descent of the ENE Face of Petit Mont Blanc.
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Scottish winter climbing, hard repeats and first ascents
A series of hard repeats and first ascents on Ben Nevis, Coire an t-Sneachda and Lochnagar, including the second ascent of The Hurting (XI,11 Dave MacLeod, 2005) by Andy Turner.
Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
10/02/2011 - Alpinism
Solo per i tuoi occhi, the great icefall on Monte Pelmo climbed by Ballico and Milanese
On 23/01/2011 Giuseppe Ballico and Marco Milanesi carried out what is believe to be the first ascent of Solo per i tuoi occhi (300m, V, WI 5+ XRM), the massive drip on the ESE Face of Monte Pelmo, Dolomites.
Cerro Pollone East, first ascent in Patagonia by Kauffman and Toman
21/01/2011 - Alpinism
Cerro Pollone East, first ascent in Patagonia by Kauffman and Toman
At the start of January 2011 the American alpinists Neil Kauffman and Jim Toman carried out the first ascent of Cerro Pollone East (Patagonia) by climbing Re Puesto! (V 800m 5.10 A1).
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
08/01/2011 - Alpinism
Jardines Japoneses, new route on Aguja Mermoz, Patagonia
American alpinists Colin Haley, Mikey Schaefer and Jens Holsten have established 'Jardines Japoneses', (650m AI4 M5 5.10 A1) on Aguja Mermoz in Patagonia.
Freeride skiing in the Alta Badia, Dolomites
Freeride skiing in the Alta Badia, Dolomites
A brief introduction to seven freeride itineraries in Alta Badia, Dolomites, by Mountain Guide Francesco Tremolada.
Lunag II in Nepal by French team
22/12/2010 - Alpinism
Lunag II in Nepal by French team
At the end of October a four-man French team comprised of Max Belleville, Mathieu Detrie, Mathieu Maynadier, and Seb Ratel carried out the first ascent of Lunag II (6830m) Nepal.
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
02/12/2010 - Climbing
Red, Moon and Star, new route on Kizilin Bacì by Larcher and Giupponi
In October 2010 Rolando Larcher and Luca Giupponi established Red, Moon and Star (8a/8a+ max, 7b obl., 400m) up the North Face of Kizilin Bacì (Ala Daglar, Cappadocia, Turkey).
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
19/11/2010 - Alpinism
Patagonia, Holzknecht and Moroder climb Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre
In Patagonia Adam Holzknecht and Hubert Moroder have climbed Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre in rapid alpine style. In the meantime Rolando Garibotti has removed 17 bolts from Cerro Torre placed last year by the team headed by David Lama.
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
10/11/2010 - Alpinism
Mount Kyzyl Asker: Papert, Senf and Russegger in Kyrgyzstan
Ines Papert, Thomas Senf and Wolfgang Russegger have failed 200m shy of the summit in an attempt to establish a new line up Mount Kyzyl Asker, Kyrgyzstan.
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
07/11/2010 - Alpinism
The Messner slab on the Sass dla Crusc, Dolomites
The famous section climbed by Reinhold Messner on the Pilastro di Mezzo on Sass dla Crusc (also referred to as Sasso della Croce or Heiligkreuzkofel), analysed by Heinz Mariacher. Plus the history, a video and an on-site report by Nicola Tondini.

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