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Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
10/01/2013 - Alpinism
Valeria, important new ice climb in the Brenta Dolomites
On 6-7 January 2013 Gianni Canale and Aldo Mazzotti made the first ascent of Via Valeria (270m, VI ice, M4+, VI+ rock) up the west face of Crozzon di Brenta, Dolomites. The route has been dedicated to Valeria Brunelli.
Dean Potter does the Moonwalk
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Dean Potter does the Moonwalk
Dean Potter walks a highline at Cathedral Peak in Yosemite.
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
09/01/2013 - Alpinism
Corrado Pesce and his climbs in Patagonia
'How could I define the time spent in Patagonia. Expedition? Holiday? Journey? The right term is none of these' The trip report by Corrado Korra Pesce who has just spent a month in Patagonia which resulted in a series of ascents including a fast repeat of Supercanaleta up Fitz Roy...
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
30/12/2012 - Climbing
Bolts removed from Eternal Rest at Ceredo
On 10 December 2012 the bolts were removed from the sports climb Eterno Riposo, Eternal Rest, at Ceredo in Italy. On his blog Andrea Tosi, the man who first bolted the climb and now removed the bolts, explains his actions.
New routes and climbing projects in Iran
28/12/2012 - Alpinism
New routes and climbing projects in Iran
The report by Luka Lindic of his latest climbing trip to Iran with Sam Beaugey , Manu Pellissier and Marko Prezelj during which they made the first ascent of Golden spatula (1000m, 6b) up Bisotoon.
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
24/12/2012 - Alpinism
Alpinism, fabulous and silent, at Castello Provenzale
On 23 December Ivo Ferrari and Dario Spreafico repeated Lo Spigolo Maria Grazia on the East Face of Castello Provenzale (Valle Maira, Hautes Alpes). The report Ivo Ferrari.
Jacopo Larcher and his 9a climbing at Red River Gorge
30/11/2012 - Interviews
Jacopo Larcher and his 9a climbing at Red River Gorge
Interview with the young Italian climber Jacopo Larcher, touching on the Red River Gorge, the Kalymnos Climbing Festival, the Dolomites and much more.
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
20/11/2012 - Alpinism
Fitz Roy, important East Face new route by Ackermann and Lerjen-Demjen
On the East Face of Fitz Roy in Patagonia Switzerland’s Michael Lerjen-Demjen and Argentina’s Jorge Ackermann have made the first ascent, in alpine style, of Un Mar de Suenos (1200m, 7a, A3, M4).
Freerider in Yosemite repeated by Della Bordella and Bacci
15/11/2012 - Climbing
Freerider in Yosemite repeated by Della Bordella and Bacci
The report by Matteo della Bordella about his recent free ascent, together with David Bacci, of Freerider, the famous climb freed by Alexander and Thomas Huber on El Capitan, Yosemite.
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
14/11/2012 - Climbing
Hotel Supramonte, do masterpieces age? The story of extraordinary maintenance of an extraordinary climb
Maurizio Oviglia reports about the recent rebolting of the famous rock climb Hotel Supramonte. Established in 1998/99 by Rolando Larcher and Roberto Vigiani, Sardina’s famous multi-pitch has now been restored to its former glory by Larcher and Oviglia, with the new stainless steel bolts placed (obviously) in exactly the same...
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
31/10/2012 - Alpinism
Tommy Caldwell and his intense Rätikon and Wenden climbing tour
Climbing in Europe from the point of view of ace American climber Tommy Caldwell who ascended a series of difficult multi-pitches in Rätikon, Val Bavona and Wenden, including the repeat of Portami Via which included the first ascent of a pitch variation.
Grotta del Ferro, new route by Simone Pedeferri in Val di Mello
26/10/2012 - Climbing
Grotta del Ferro, new route by Simone Pedeferri in Val di Mello
Simone Pedeferri has freed Dream of love 8c at Grotta del Ferro, Val di Mello, Italy.
Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali
11/10/2012 - Alpinism
Il colpo di coda, new Presolana rock climb by Codazzi and Natali
On 22/09/2012 Stefano Codazzi and Daniele Natali made the first ascent of Il colpo di coda (7a+, 160m) up the South Face of Presolana, Italy. The report by Natali who made the first free ascent of the line together with Carlo Cortinovis on 06/10/2012.
Brione and the new bouldering access agreement in Valle Verzasca
10/10/2012 - Climbing
Brione and the new bouldering access agreement in Valle Verzasca
An important new agreement in Valle Verzasca (Switzerland) to avoid the closure of the Brione bouldering area.
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
09/10/2012 - Climbing
L’orologio senza tempo, Punta Figari and Giova Massari's 50th birthday
Last August Giovannino Massari and Paolo Seimandi re-equipped L'orologio senza tempo, the historic rock climb established in 1982 by Massari and Andrea Parodi up the East Face of Punta Figari (Gruppo Castello - Provenzale). The report by Paolo Seimandi.