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Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
30/05/2012 - Alpinism
Antonio Boscacci, legendary Val di Mello climber, has gone forever
Antonio Boscacci, the great climber, alpinist, mathematician, writer, photographer and one of the most visionary inventors of the new climbing in Val di Mello and further afield died tody aged 63 after battling long against illness.
Silvio Reffo frees Jungle Pockets at Lumignano
14/05/2012 - Climbing
Silvio Reffo frees Jungle Pockets at Lumignano
Silvio Reffo and the first free ascent of Jungle Pockets 8b+ at the crag Lumignano, Italy.
Via del Det, the story and history in a film
10/05/2012 - Climbing
Via del Det, the story and history in a film
The film and the first free ascent Sulla via del Det up Sasso Cavallo (Lecco, Italy) will be screened at Valmadrera, with special guests Giuseppe Alippi Det, Benigno Balatti and the Ragni Luca Passini and Matteo Piccardi.
Melloblocco, a passionate battle
08/05/2012 - Events
Melloblocco, a passionate battle
Sun, rain, boulder problems and parties for 2200 people during the ninth edition of Melloblocco 2012. Our final report of the world's most important bouldering meeting which took place in Val Masino - Val di Mello from 3 to 6 May.
Rwenzori and Margherita Peak, the third highest mountain in Africa
19/04/2012 - Alpinism
Rwenzori and Margherita Peak, the third highest mountain in Africa
David Orlandi introduces the Central Circuit Trail in the Rwenzori mountain range in Uganda and the ascent of Margherita Peak 5109m, the third highest mountain in Africa.
Adamello: new route Cuore di Zucca and first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile by Guerzoni and Sandrini
18/04/2012 - Alpinism
Adamello: new route Cuore di Zucca and first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile by Guerzoni and Sandrini
In the Adamello mountain range in Italy, Andrea Andrea Guerzoni and Dario Sandrini have established Cuore di Zucca (5+, 700m) on Corno Zuccone. Furthermore, on 16 March the two made the first winter ascent of Dottor Gore-Tex e Mr. Pile up Cornetto di Salarno.
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
22/03/2012 - Alpinism
Via Cembridge, first winter ascent by Giupponi, Larcher and Leoni
From 25 - 27 January 2012 Luca Giupponi, Rolando Larcher and Fabio Leoni carried out the first winter ascent (and first on-sight) of Via Cembridge (550m, 7b+ (6c obligatory) up Cima Margherita, Brenta Dolomites, Italy.
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
13/03/2012 - Alpinism
Jim Bridwell, his Cerro Torre point of view
The thoughts of American alpinist Jim Bridwell about the bolt chopping on the Compressor Route, Cerro Torre, Patagonia
Miyar Valley, new climbs by Schaar and Peschel in India
27/02/2012 - Alpinism
Miyar Valley, new climbs by Schaar and Peschel in India
In summer 2011 Gerhard Schaar and Ines Peschel visited the Miyar Valley (India) where they established a series of new routes.
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
20/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre an impossible mountain, the petition in favour of the bolt chopping
The petition, promoted by Rolando Garibotti, concerning the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor Route on Cerro Torre, Patagonia by the Americans Hayden Kennedy and Jason Kruk.
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
09/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre bolt chopping, the debate in Italy
With regards to the bolt chopping on Cerro Torre's Compressor route, we have received and published the views of Stefano Lovison, shared by numerous Italian alpinists.
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
03/02/2012 - Alpinism
Cerro Torre: the bolt chopping and its history as seen through the eyes of Mario Conti
Italian alpinist Mario Conti shares his views about the recent bolt chopping of the Compressor route on the SE Face of Cerro Torre.
Felsige Gärten, new mixed variation to Hängende Gärten in Austria's Tyrol
03/02/2012 - Climbing
Felsige Gärten, new mixed variation to Hängende Gärten in Austria's Tyrol
At the end of January Christian Picco Piccolruaz and Albert Leichtfried carried out the first ascent of Felsige Gärten, a mixed variation to the classic ice climb Hängende Gärten in the Tyrol, Austria.
Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
23/01/2012 - Competitions
Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012: Burgada and Roux win in Andorra
In Andorra history repeated itself yesterday. The first stage of the Ski mountaineering World Cup 2012 was won once again by Kilian Jornet Burgada and Laetitia Roux.
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
14/01/2012 - Alpinism
Aconcagua South Face: the ascent by Andrea Di Donato and Andres Zegers
On 22,23,24 December 2011 the Italian Mountain Guide Andrea Di Donato and the alpinist from Chile Andres Zegers ascended the South Face of Aconcagua (6962m, Andes, Argentina), establishing a probable 800m new start variation to the Direct French route.
Piz Cengalo, NNE Face rockfall
02/01/2012 - Alpinism
Piz Cengalo, NNE Face rockfall
After the rockfall last summer, on 27/12/2012 a new rockfall ocurrred on the North-north-east face of Pizzo Cengalo (3369m, Bregaglia) in Val Bondasca on the Swiss - Italian border. The report by Marcello Negrini.

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