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Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
30/10/2018 - Alpinism
Tre Cime di Lavaredo Punta Frida: a first ascent in the Dolomites
Czech alpinist Michal Coubal reports about a first ascent, carried out with Aja Coubalova up Punta Frida, Tre Cime di Lavaredo, Dolomites: The Lights from the other World.
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
17/10/2018 - Alpinism
Crevasse fall on Toula Glacier: mountain guide Ezio Marlier reports
Last Saturday a young man fell into a crevasse on the Col del Toula glacier (Mont Blanc). He is currently in hospital in Sallanches. The report and considerations of Ezio Marlier, a well-known alpinist and mountain guide from Valle d'Aosta who, together with Rifugio Torino hut warden and Mountain Guide...
Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team
07/10/2018 - Alpinism
Virgin Himalayan 6000er climbed by Austrian dream team
Alpinists Hansjörg Auer, Max Berger, Much Mayr and Guido Unterwurzacher from Austria have made a three-day alpine style ascent of a previously unclimbed 6050m peak in the Kinnaur district in the Indian Himalaya.
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
06/10/2018 - Alpinism
Lhotse first ski descent carried out by Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison
The Americans Hilaree Nelson and Jim Morrison have carried out the first integral ski descent of Lhotse (8516m) in the Himalaya, skiing directly off the summit down to Camp 2 at 6400 meters.
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
04/10/2018 - Alpinism
Grande Jorasses Japanese Couloir / Spaniards make rare repeat of central gem
In the Mont Blanc massif the Spanish mountaineers Roger Cararach Soler, Marc Toralles and Bru Busom repeated the Japanese Couloir, the so-called 'Couloir central' that splits the North Face of the Grandes Jorasses. The three repeated the climb in 24 hours, without bivouacs, and at the start of the season.
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
03/10/2018 - Alpinism
Wenden: Matteo Della Bordella completes Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck climb
On Reissend Nollen in Switzerland’s Wendenstöcke Matteo Della Bordella, accompanied by Silvan Schüpbach, has made the first free ascent of 'Polenta con farina degli altri', a multi-pitch alpine climb that was started by Kaspar Ochsner and Ueli Steck. Della Bordella completed the route with Dimitri Anghileri and Paolo Spreafico.
Adam Ondra in Bosnia frees High Line, one of best first ascents ever
29/09/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra in Bosnia frees High Line, one of best first ascents ever
Czech climber Adam Ondra has freed the High Line at Banja Luka in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Graded 9a+, the 25-year-old has described this as called it 'one of my best first ascents ever'.
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
28/09/2018 - Alpinism
Tomas and Silvestro Franchini conclude Los Picos 6500 across the 16 highest mountains in the Andes
Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas have climbed Mt. Yerupajá, turning back below the summit cornice. This is the last of their tour of the 16 highest mountains in the South American Andes.
Lorenzo Puri: pure power bouldering
22/09/2018 - Climbing
Lorenzo Puri: pure power bouldering
The latest climbs of Italian boulderer Lorenzo Puri from Albarracin to Champorcher and Sustenpass.
Nina Caprez in Rätikon repeats Headless Children
19/09/2018 - Climbing
Nina Caprez in Rätikon repeats Headless Children
Swiss rock climber Nina Caprez has made the third free ascent of Headless children, the beautiful and difficult multi-pitch rock climb in the Rätikon massif in Switzerland.
Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
18/09/2018 - Alpinism
Huascarán Norte in Peru climbed by Tomas Franchini, Silvestro Franchini
The Italian alpine guides Silvestro Franchini and his brother Tomas Franchini have climbed Huascarán Norte, the highest mountain in Peru, as part of their Los Picos 6500 project which aims to climb the 16 highest peaks of the South American Andes.
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
14/09/2018 - Alpinism
Liv Sansoz completes 82 x 4000m peaks in the Alps
French climber and alpinist Liv Sansoz has completed all 82 alpine four-thousanders.
Mente Demente new rock climb up Spiz of Lastia in the Italian Dolomites
10/09/2018 - Alpinism
Mente Demente new rock climb up Spiz of Lastia in the Italian Dolomites
Diego Toigo reports about the first ascent of Mente Demente, climbed on 17 August with Francesco Fent and Alberto Maschio up the NW Face of Spiz della Lastia, Agner, Dolomites
Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth
07/09/2018 - Alpinism
Tom Belz summits Kilimanjaro on route towards personal growth
On 9 August 2018 the disabled mountaineer Tom Belz reached the summit of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa, without a leg and on crutches. An adventure to understand his personal limits but above all to encourage others to push beyone their personal boundaries.
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
05/09/2018 - Alpinism
Andreas Steindl sprints up and down Matterhorn in 4 hours
On Monday 27 August 2018 the 29-year-old Swiss mountain guide Andreas Steindl ascended and descended the Matterhorn via the Hornli ridge at breakneck speed, requiring 3 hours, 59 minutes and 52 seconds for the round-trip from Zermatt.
Federica Mingolla and Marcello Bombardi win the rock climbing competition at Valgrisenche
05/09/2018 - Competitions
Federica Mingolla and Marcello Bombardi win the rock climbing competition at Valgrisenche
The outdoor rock climbing competition at Valgrisenche, Valle d'Aosta, was won on Sunday 2 September by Federica Mingolla and Marcello Bombardi. the fought-out comp took place at the same crag that hosted the first climbing competition in Valle d'Aosta 30 years ago. The report by Alberto Gnerro, route setter and...

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