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New climbs in the Brenta Dolomites
05/01/2013 - Alpinism
New climbs in the Brenta Dolomites
Two difficult new routes in the Brenta Dolomites: the mixed climb 'Brothers' up Cima Grostè and the rock climb 'Ladri' up Campanile Basso.
Schwarzer Engel, extreme new Maltatal icefall
03/01/2013 - Alpinism
Schwarzer Engel, extreme new Maltatal icefall
On 15/12/2012 Markus Pucher and Alois Krenn made the first ascent of the extremely difficult new icefall Schwarzer Engel (WI7+, M7, E6, 160m) in the Maltatal, Austria.
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
27/12/2012 - Alpinism
Gasteinertal, new difficult ice climbs Austria
Two new difficult icefalls in Austria's Gasteinertal established by Thomas Bubendorfer, Sepp Inhöger and Hans Zlöbl: Triple A and The usual suspects
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
17/12/2012 - Alpinism
Greenland, new rock climb La chute de rein
In summer 2012 a group of young Swiss climbers established La chute de rein (600m, 6c, A1 pendulum) on peak Whale Top (1303m) in Southern Greenland.
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
07/12/2012 - Alpinism
I Tre Giganti, the Three Giants by Ermanno Salvaterra on Crozzon di Brenta
I Tre Giganti - the Three Giants - the route climbed by Ermanno Salvaterra, Matteo "Will" Bertolotti, Paolo Grisa and Chicca Boselli up the NE Face of Crozzon di Brenta (3118m, Brenta Dolomites. The story by Ermanno Salvaterra.
New mixed climbs up Hochgasser in Austria
05/12/2012 - Alpinism
New mixed climbs up Hochgasser in Austria
Two new routes have been established up the NW Face of Hochgasser in Austria: Ben Gassa and Wurzer Rinne.
Mont Rouge di Greuvetta, new mixed route Eyes Wide Shut
04/12/2012 - Alpinism
Mont Rouge di Greuvetta, new mixed route Eyes Wide Shut
On 20/11/2012 British alpinists Matt Helliker and Jon Bracey made the first ascent of Eyes Wide Shut (900m, ED1, M6, AO, UIAA IV+) up the NE Face of Mont Rouge di Greuvetta (Mont Blanc massif).
The first snow in the Dolomites and the start of the winter season
The first snow in the Dolomites and the start of the winter season
Corvara-based mountain guide Francesco Tremolada has sent us this short update about the early start to off-piste skiing, freeride and ski mountaineering in the Dolomites.
Chardonnet Migot Spur, first ski descent by Bruchez and Jornet Burgada
Chardonnet Migot Spur, first ski descent by Bruchez and Jornet Burgada
On 23/11/2012 Vivian Bruchez and Kilian Jornet Burgada made the first ski descent of the Migot Spur located on Aiguille de Chardonnet in the Mont Blanc massif.
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
26/11/2012 - Alpinism
Aladaglar, two new Turkish rock climbs by Larcher, Giupponi, Sartori
In July and August 2012 Italian climbers Rolando Larcher, Luca Giupponi and Nicola Sartori returned to Turkey's Aladaglar massif where they established and freed "Nessuno" (470m, 8a+ max, 7b obligatory) up the North Face of Cima Vay Vay and "Radio Eksen" (200m, 7c max, 7a+ obligatory) in the Cimbar Valley.
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
21/11/2012 - Alpinism
Croz del Rifugio, new routes and reequipping in the Brenta Dolomites
On the North Face of Croz del Rifugio (Brenta Dolomites) Italian mountain guide Franco Nicolini has put up two new routes and reequipped the belays of his Via Elena (1988) as well as Via Bregtie, first climbed in 1963 by Cesare Maestri and Ernesto Carafoli.
Samuel Anthamatten and his love for freeride
08/11/2012 - Interviews
Samuel Anthamatten and his love for freeride
Interview by Ellade Ossola with Samuel Anthamatten, the Swiss freerider and alpinist, on the eve of the Evolution Vertical event organized by New Rock and scheduled to take place in Lugano, Switzerland on Friday 9 November.
Arwa Spire, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl free Fior di Vite
30/10/2012 - Alpinism
Arwa Spire, Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl free Fior di Vite
In September 2012 Roger Schäli and Simon Gietl made the first free ascent of Fior di Vite (800m, 90°, M5, 7a) up Arwa Spire (6193m), India, the route established by Schäli himself along with Hasler and Harvey in 2002.
Ines Papert frees Schwarze Madonna on Untersberg
26/10/2012 - Climbing
Ines Papert frees Schwarze Madonna on Untersberg
On 6/10/2012 Ines Papert made the first free ascent of Schwarze Madonna (8a+, 180m) on Untersberg in Germany.
Andreas Fransson and his extreme skiing in Patagonia
11/10/2012 - Interviews
Andreas Fransson and his extreme skiing in Patagonia
Interview with Sweden's Andreas Fransson who on 19/09/2012 made the first ski descent of the Whillans ramp on Aguja Poincenot, Patagonia.
Spigolo Bonatti, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo
10/10/2012 - Climbing
Spigolo Bonatti, new rock climb at Capo d'Uomo
A new rock climb at Tuscany's beautiful Capo d'Uomo (Argentario): Spigolo Bonatti (6a, 240m), established and introduced by the mountain guide Eraldo Meraldi.