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Adam Ondra claims world’s first 9a+ flash at St. Léger
11/02/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra claims world’s first 9a+ flash at St. Léger
At Saint Léger in France Adam Ondra has made a flash ascent of Super Crackinette. This is the first time a 9a+ has successfully been flashed.
Hansjörg Auer climbs new winter lines in Ötztal
06/02/2018 - Alpinism
Hansjörg Auer climbs new winter lines in Ötztal
On 19 January 2018 Hansjörg Auer and Tobias Holzknecht made the first ascent of Nordstau, a new mixed climb in the Ötztal, Austria. On 29 January Auer teamed up with Simon Messner to carry out the first winter ascent of the nearby North Face of Innerer Hahlkogel.
Adam Ondra climbs two 9a+ at Charmey and St Léger
06/02/2018 - Climbing
Adam Ondra climbs two 9a+ at Charmey and St Léger
At Charmey in Switzerland Adam Ondra has repeated Meiose, indicating 9a+ instead of the 9b grade suggested by first ascentionist Pirmin Bertle, while at Saint Léger du Ventoux in France the 25-year-old Czech climber has free yet another 9a+.
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
01/02/2018 - Alpinism
Watzmann Family Traverse, Ines Papert & Luka Lindič make possible first winter ascent
On 11 January 2018 Ines Papert and Luka Lindic made what is likely to be the first winter traverse of the Watzmann (2713 m), Berchtesgaden Alps. Papert reports about this east to west climb across the third highest mountain in Germany.
Final '68, crowdfunding campaign ends in just one week
22/01/2018 - Climbing
Final '68, crowdfunding campaign ends in just one week
The crowdfunding campaign for Final ’68, the project that aims to document the exploratory phase of the Pietra del Finale between the years 1968 and 1975, will come to an end in seven days time.
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
17/01/2018 - Climbing
Giorgia Tesio completes first female ascent of Hyaena at Finale
At the crag Monte Sordo in Finale Ligure, Italy, Giorgia Tesio made the first female ascent of Hyaena. First climbed in 1986 by Andrea Gallo, this sport climb has remained a reference point for top end sport climbing.
Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland
03/01/2018 - Alpinism
Dani Arnold free solo climbs Beta Block Super icefall up Breitwangfluh in Switzerland
On 24 December 2017 the 33-year-old Swiss alpinist Dani Arnold made a free solo ascent of the icefall Beta Block Super up the Breitwangfluh above Kandersteg in Switzerland.
Janja Garnbret climbs her first 9a at Santa Linya in Spain
30/12/2017 - Climbing
Janja Garnbret climbs her first 9a at Santa Linya in Spain
Slovenian climber Janja Garnbret has redpointed her first 9a sports climb, Seleccio Natural at Santa Linya, Spain.
La Sportiva Strange Heroes: Barbara Zangerl
27/12/2017 - Climbing
La Sportiva Strange Heroes: Barbara Zangerl
Barbara Zangerl and the climb Speed at the Swiss crag Voralpsee are the focus of the third episode of the La Sportiva series Strange Heroes.
Riccardo Moretti climbs Grandi Gesti at Sperlonga
26/12/2017 - Climbing
Riccardo Moretti climbs Grandi Gesti at Sperlonga
On 6/12/2017 young Italian climber Riccardo Moretti redpointed Grandi Gesti at Sperlonga, one of the reference 9a sport climbs in Central Italy. The report by Maurizio Oviglia.
Finale '68, in search of the climbing history and pioneering exploration of Finale Ligure
20/12/2017 - Climbing
Finale '68, in search of the climbing history and pioneering exploration of Finale Ligure
In order to celebrate 50 years of rock climbing at Finale Ligure in NW Italy, Michele Fanni and Gabriele Canu have started a project to retrace Finale's explorative phase that took place between 1968 and 1975. After following in the footsteps of the early pioneers up 13 major cliffs, a...
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
15/12/2017 - Alpinism
First-class Italian mountaineering in China: the Mount Edgar report
After the initial fragmentary news, François Cazzanelli now reports about the expedition to Mount Edgar (6618 m) in the Nanmengou Valley in Sichuan, China which included Francesco Ratti, Emrik Favre, Tomas Franchini, Matteo Faletti and Fabrizio Dellai. The Italian alpinists succeeded in establishing numerous routes including the first ascent of...
Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
14/12/2017 - Alpinism
Scotland: superb new winter climb established by Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson
Winter mountaineering in Scotland: on the Church Door Buttress at Bidean nam Bian close to Glen Coe the expert British mountaineers Greg Boswell and Guy Robertson have made the first ascent of Lost Arrow Winter Variation, describing the demanding line as 'one of the most sustained routes' they have ever...
Chris Sharma climbing at Yosemite and Bishop
08/12/2017 - Climbing
Chris Sharma climbing at Yosemite and Bishop
The video of Chris Sharma attempting an old project in Yosemite with Tommy Caldwell before moving on to Bishop to claim the first repeat of Everything is Karate, a difficult new sports climb established by Ethan Pringle.
Kaunergrat Winter Traverse, Matthias & Hansjörg Auer mountaineering in the Ötztal Alps
05/12/2017 - Alpinism
Kaunergrat Winter Traverse, Matthias & Hansjörg Auer mountaineering in the Ötztal Alps
Winter mountaineering video: Hansjörg Auer and his brother Matthias and their North - South traverse of the main section of the Kaunergrat ridge in the Ötztal Alps, Austria.
Bombé bleu at Buoux attempted by Nicolas Januel
03/12/2017 - Climbing
Bombé bleu at Buoux attempted by Nicolas Januel
Interest in the Buoux Bombé bleu project, also referred to as Chantier by French climbing legend Marc Le Menestrel who bolted the line in 1991, has been rekindled thanks to French climber Nicolas Januel who recently attempted the historic project.