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Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann on Cima Marcoira, Dolomites
08/08/2016 - Alpinism
Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann on Cima Marcoira, Dolomites
Enrico Maioni, Mountain guide from Cortina, introduces Via Da Pozzo - Bachmann, first ascended in 2002 by Walter Bachman and Paolo Da Pozzo up the NE Face of Cima Marcoira, Sorapis Dolomites.
Rifugio Boccalatte Piolti at the Grandes Jorasses
04/08/2016 - Alpinism
Rifugio Boccalatte Piolti at the Grandes Jorasses
On 08/07/2016 the Boccalatte Piolti hut at the Grandes Jorasses (Mont Blanc massif) was reopened and is now run by Roberta Francesca Heidi Cutri and Franco Perlotto who, in this video, talks about this refuge that has become an integral part of the history of mountaineering.
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
01/08/2016 - Alpinism
Bastava un Piumino, new rock climb in the Brenta Dolomites
In the Brenta Dolomites Andrea Simonini and Gianluca Beliamoli have made the first ascent of 'Bastava un Piumino' (180m, 6c), a new multi-pitch climb on a tower they have named Pilastro Canino, next to Cima d'Agola in Val d'Ambiez. Simonini provides the report.
Arco Rock Legends 2016: the sport climbing Oscars nominees
27/07/2016 - Events
Arco Rock Legends 2016: the sport climbing Oscars nominees
On Friday 26 August 2016 the annual sport climbing Oscars return to celebrate the 11th Arco Rock Legends awards during the historic 30th Rock Master climbing competition. The candidates for the Wild Country Rock Award are Dani Andrada (Esp), Jakob Schubert (Aut) and Laura Rogora (Ita), while Janja Garnbret (Slo),...
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
22/07/2016 - Alpinism
Classic climbs n. 1: Pisciadù NW Arête. By Ivo Ferrari
Ivo Ferrari climbs the North-West Arête, also known as Via W.H. on the West face of the Pisciadù (Sella, Dolomites). This classic outing was first climbed on 09/05/1971 by Heini Holzer and Sieglinde Walzl.
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
19/07/2016 - Alpinism
Federica Mingolla climbs the Marmolada Fish route: interview after the first female all-lead ascent
On Sunday, July 17, 2016 Italy’s Federica Mingolla made a free ascent of the famous Fish Route (Via Attraverso il Pesce) on the south face of Marmolada, Dolomites. She is probably the first women to lead the entire route free. The ascent was carried out, together with Roberto Conti, in...
Only one climbing God: the grade!
14/07/2016 - Climbing
Only one climbing God: the grade!
Motivated by debates on facebook, the Italian climber and photographer Riky Felderer shares his point of view about an issue that knows no end: climbing grades.
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
11/07/2016 - Climbing
Louis Piguet continues to rebolt sports climbs in Sardinia
Swiss climbers Louis Piguet, who has shown a particular interested in the problem about replacing rusty anchors and corroded AISI 304 stainless steel bolts, continues his titanic work of re-equipping the marine crags along Sardinia’s coastline.
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
09/07/2016 - Alpinism
Caroline Ciavaldini repeats Voie Petit on Grand Capucin, Mont Blanc
French climber Caroline Ciavaldini has repeated Voie Petit, the 450m 8b multi-pitch climb on Grand Capucin (3838m), Mont Blanc first ascended in 1997 by Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet, Pascal Gaudin and Jean-Paul Petit and freed in 2005 by Alexander Huber.
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
02/07/2016 - Alpinism
Traumschiff at Cansla in the Dolomites
Italian mountain guide Alberto De Giuli introduces Traumschiff, the classic multi-pitch sport climb established in 1986 by Simon Demetz and Karl Vinatzer up the Traumpfeiler face at Cansla, Meisules dla Biesces, Dolomites.
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
01/07/2016 - Alpinism
Gangstang NW Ridge first ascent by Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham
Malcolm Bass and Guy Buckingham have just made the first ascent of the beautiful NW Ridge of Gangstang (6162m) in the Himachal Pradesh Himalaya. They reached the summit on the 9th June and descended to base camp the next day completing a five day round trip.
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
26/06/2016 - Competitions
International Ski Mountaineering: the 2017 competition calendar
The 2017 ISMF World Cup season contains 11 races in 5 different countries including, for the first time, Turkey. The traditional Grande Course competitions will no longer be part of the World Cup circuit.
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
10/06/2016 - Alpinism
Leonardo Comelli perishes on Laila Peak in Pakistan
On 9 June 2016, the 27-year-old Italian alpinist Leonardo Comelli died while attempting the first ski descent of Laila Peak (Karakorum, Pakistan). The other expedition members Carlo Cosi, Zeno Cecon and Enrico Mosetti, are unhurt.
The North Face Mountain Festival 2016 at Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland
01/06/2016 - Events
The North Face Mountain Festival 2016 at Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland
From 16 - 18 September 2016 at Lauterbrunnen in Switzerland The North Face hosts its Mountain Festival, weekend of adventurous mountain activities at the foot of the Eiger.
Sport climbing: tie a knot in the end of the rope!
31/05/2016 - Climbing
Sport climbing: tie a knot in the end of the rope!
We have received the following appeal by the French Alpine Club section Causses et Cévennes that manages the Gorges du Tarn cliff reminding all climbers to tie a knot in the end of the tope before starting climbing a sport route.
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
25/05/2016 - Climbing
Traverso al Cielo, Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz add new rock climb up Peitlerkofel in the Dolomites
In autumn 2015 the two mountain guides Simon Kehrer and Christoph Hainz made the first ascent of Traverso al Cielo, a new multi-pitch climb up the South face of Peitlerkofel, Dolomites. Simon Kehrer reports.