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Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
21/06/2010 - Alpinism
Nevado Shaqsha, Peru: 2 new routes by Italian expedition
In May the Italian 'Cordillera 2010' expedition comprised of Andrea Di Donato, Roberto Iannilli and Ivo Scappatura established "El sueño de los excluidos" (1440m, max VII/VII+, A2) on the SE Face of Nevado Shaqsha (Quebrada Rurec Valley, Huantsàn, Cordillera Blanca, Perù). During the same time period Luca D’Andrea and Massimo...
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
16/06/2010 - Climbing
Let's free our crags from in-situ quickdraws!
Maurizio Oviglia, the man responsible for hundeds of new routes all across Italy, reflects about the use and habit of leaving in-situ quickdraws on sport routes. This habit is spreading to easier routes and the implications are far deeper than a simple question of aesthetics.
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
04/06/2010 - Climbing
Il volo di Pegasus, new route on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrians Albert Leichtfried and Reinhard Ranner have carried out the first ascent of Il volo di Pegasus (260m, 7a) on Monte Monaco, San Vito lo Capo, Sicily.
Melloblocco 2010
12/05/2010 - Climbing
Melloblocco 2010
Melloblocco 2010 turned out to be a success once again. Despite the bad weather 1900 registered climbers took part in the world's largest bouldering meeting in Val di Mello, Italy from 6 - 9 May 2010. The valley was visited by a circa 3500 boulderers, as can be read in...
Climbing meeting at Buoux Face Ouest
11/05/2010 - Climbing
Climbing meeting at Buoux Face Ouest
Escala'Buoux and the meeting at Buoux to celebrate the lifting of the climbing ban on Face Ouest.
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
06/05/2010 - Climbing
De rerum natura, new route by Oviglia and Larcher at Bavella, Corsica
On 16 April Maurizio Oviglia and Rolando Larcher carried out the first free ascent of De rerum natura (230m, 7c max, 7a obbl, /RS2+/II) on Punta u Corbu at Col de la Bavella, Corsica.
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
26/03/2010 - Climbing
Mescalito live on El Capitan by Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson
American climbers Tommy Caldwell and Kevin Jorgeson report directly from El Capitan in Yosemite with updates about their progress on what has become known as the immensely difficult Mescalito Dawn Wall project.
Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
18/03/2010 - Climbing
Climbing in South Africa around Cape Town
Tony Lourens, the editor of SA Mountain Sport Magazine, shares the delights of rock climbing around Cape Town at the tip of Africa.
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
03/03/2010 - Climbing
Fiducia al sentiero, new route for Baù and Della Bordella in Mexico
In January 2010 the Italians Alessandro Baù and Matteo Della Bordella carried out the first ascent of 'Fiducia al sentiero' (500m, 5.12c/7b+ max – 5.11d/7a obl.) on the South Face of Tatewari in the La Huasteca Natural Park, Monterrey, Mexico.
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
04/12/2009 - Climbing
Hansjörg Auer, free as a bird on Vogelfrei 8b/8b+, Schüsselkarspitze
Hansjörg Auer has carried out the first free ascent of Vogelfrei (8b/8b+ 400m), on the South Face of the Schüsselkarspitze, Austria.
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
01/12/2009 - Climbing
La lingua pura 7c, new multi-pitch climb on Monte Monaco, Sicily
Austrian Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried has made the first ascent of La lingua pura (7c, 6c oblig, 200m) on the North Face of Monte Monaco close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy, together with Paul Mair.
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
23/11/2009 - Climbing
Kilian Fischhuber repeats Des Kaisers neue Kleider 8b+
Kilian Fischhuber from Austria has repeated Des Kaisers neue Kleider (250m, 8b+) on the Wilder Kaiser, Austria.
Never Sleeping Wall, climbing on Sicily
18/11/2009 - Climbing
Never Sleeping Wall, climbing on Sicily
The Never sleeping Wall, an inspiring crag close to San Vito lo Capo in Sicily, Italy introduced by Mountain Guide Albert Leichtfried.
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
06/11/2009 - Climbing
Verdon Gorge rock climbing in France
A selection of rock climbs in the fantastic Verdon Gorge, France, an area which witnessed the entire evolution of sport climbing.
Verdon climbing: Toni Lamprecht frees Le Vieux et la mer
19/10/2009 - Climbing
Verdon climbing: Toni Lamprecht frees Le Vieux et la mer
In summer 2009 Toni Lamprecht, Uli Strunz and Benno Wagner carried out the first ascent of the multi-pitch "Le Vieux et la mer" 8b in the Verdon Gorge, France.
Karwendel climbing: new routes on the Halleranger - Speckkar
08/10/2009 - Climbing
Karwendel climbing: new routes on the Halleranger - Speckkar
Three new alpine multi-pitch routes by Reinhold Scherer and Dieter Stöhr on the Karwendel, Austria.