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Photo by arch. R. Roetti

Photo by arch. E. Bonfanti
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New rock climbs on Aiguille de l'Eveque, Mont Blanc


Two new routes on SSW shoulder of Aiguille de l'Eveque, Le manteau de l'Eveque (240m, 7a max, 6b+ oblig) and Les Pèlerins et la Dame (200m, 6c/A0, 6a+ oblig) first ascended in july and August 2010 by Elio Bonfanti and Rinaldo Roetti and introduced by Bonfanti.

Following the advice of a friend we went to check out what is described as being some of the best granite in the Mont Blanc range. The rock face certainly isn't comparable to the Gran Capucin and those used to routes of that sort won't be particularly satisfied with these new routes. But for those who want to combine their actual climbing with an interesting approach (one hour and 40 minutes) and an isolated enviroment, this corner of Mont Blanc represents a true paradise.

Seeing that there are two routes and a total of 11 pitches, even the keenest will get their money's worth up rock which, bar a few exceptions, is top quality. The first repeats will elimate a few crystals which, at times, brittle away beneath your feet. Don't be mislead by the grades: the climbing here is a subtle game of balance, it's more psychological than physical and some run-outs add a hint of spice to it all.

Furthermore, in 2007 the British climbers Tony Penning, Nick Gillett and Ali Taylor established "Sexy beast", a five-pitch trad outing with difficulties up to E3 5c. This route is located on the south face and can be reached by following the same approach. Have fun.

TOPO: Le manteau de l'Eveque
TOPO: Les Pèlerins et la Dame





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